Joiner's tools are the most popular tools in the home workshop. This is explained by the fact that with all the diversity of modern innovations, wood remains the most important hand-made material, without which it is difficult to imagine everyday life. there is any man who prefers to do many housekeeping work with his own hands. A joiner's tool is a necessary accessory for a self-respecting owner, that is, for someone who is ready to do everything himself, and not to run to the store when needed.

A joiner's tool is a wide range of various tools for woodworking and the manufacture of various wooden handicrafts and wooden parts constructions. In urban conditions it is difficult to talk about the organization of a full-fledged carpentry workshop, but it is quite possible to organize a small area for carpentry work. For the operation of such a corner, hand carpentry tools, an equipped place for carpentry work and equipment (including improvised devices) are needed.

An important condition for the organization of the workplace is to ensure the availability of the tool and the safety of work. In order to properly store the joinery tools, care should be taken of the shelves and racks where the tool for the carpenter will be arranged in a specific order. The workplace should be a first aid kit for first aid for injury. Care should be taken to secure the location of electrical points.

Joinery tools, taking into account their purpose, can be divided into several groups: measuring and marking; percussion, sawing, chopping and drilling tool joiner, as well as auxiliary tool. Various devices are important: clamping, supporting, etc. For ease of use, sets of joiner's tools are realized, in which the main devices are assembled.

Main toolkit

Basic carpentry tools are used for cutting, processing and joining wooden parts. It may be of universal use or intended for highly targeted use.

Shock toolkit.

The impact tool is used to join the workpieces, and is used when gluing and processing wood, for example, with a chisel. The main representatives of this group are:

1. Joiner's hammer: in contrast to the ordinary hammer has a flat impact side, but the opposite part is split in the form of the letter V (nail puller).
2. Kiyanka: a hammer made of wood to prevent damage to the surface of the part when hitting it.
3. Doboynik: a metal core of a conical shape for drowning the nail head.
4. Ax: the universal tool of the joiner, in which the butt is used as a shock part, and the pointed edge for cutting and hewing wood.
5. Tesla: a kind of ax used for gouging recesses.

Tools for sawing and cutting.

The sawing and cutting tool of the joiner is used for cutting wooden parts to size and cutting out various shapes. Its main types:

1. Saw: single-handled, two-handled, vykruzhnaya, belt, obushkovaya - for different types of cut.
2. Bow saw: has a stretched cutting blade for cutting in both directions and at an angle.
3. Wood saw: hand saw with handle (shortened version of the hacksaw - reward).
4. Jigsaw: allows you to cut a variety of shapes both outside the workpiece and inside it.
5. Carpenter's knife: has several varieties, incl. slanting knife - for cutting grooves in a wooden layer or for cutting veneer, its blade is cut with a slope of 35-45º, and the thickness of the blade is 3.5-5 mm; Meisel - a knife in the form of a chisel with double-sided sharpening at an angle of 20-35º, used in the final processing of wooden workpieces; scalpel - thin sharp knife.

Tools for planing.

To prepare the surface required:

The tools of this type include files. They differ in shape and grain. Used for final processing and grinding of the surface.

Tool for drilling and chiselling.

If necessary, the formation of holes, grooves, grooves used the appropriate tool carpenter. A drill is usually used for drilling holes. Drilling tools such as the brace and gimlet are often used in carpentry work. For their use a set of drills of different diameters is needed.

For gouging grooves and grooves used chisels and chisels. If necessary, use special chisels: cranberry - like a ladle and is designed for deep cutting; Reyer - for a rough impact on the tree.

Tools for measuring and marking

Carpentry work can not be carried out qualitatively without careful marking and appropriate measurements. For measurements, the following basic carpentry tool is used: a square (in the form of perpendicular bars, with a ruler scale on one) - to check the perpendicularity; center finder (isosceles triangle); erunok (control angles 45 ° and 135 °); Mulka (strap fastened by a hinge) with the installation of any desired angle; joiner's meter; ruler; calipers; level or level for checking a horizontal or vertical surface; plummet; roulette.

As used: carpentry compasses with the ability to draw a circle of up to 3.5 m; gauge - to draw the forming straight, parallel to the main line, and transfer dimensions from the drawing to the part (gauge has the form of a bar with slats fitted with teeth); comb - for the formation of spines and angular joints; from the bottom - drawing lines to ensure a good articulation of elements.

Auxiliary devices

For high-quality carpentry work, various standard or home-made devices are used. The most common are the following devices: clamps, clamps and clamp clamps, clamps for reliable bonding of elements, presses, wooden and metal vices, stops, linings with a stop, a box to facilitate cutting at different angles, servants to maintain long parts, plinth to facilitate planing thin bars, sawing table when using a jigsaw, bench board, pincers to hold the parts.

Manual chipping of wood.For the formation of nests, grooves and eyelets of rectangular cross section in the details of the wood used bits (GOST 1185-80).

Chiselsdistinguish carpentry (Fig. 32, but)and carpentry (Fig. 32, b).A chisel consists of a blade with a blade at the end and a handle. In order to avoid the split of the handle from being hit with a hammer, a steel ring is placed on top of it. The handle should be tightly and securely mounted on the shank, it should not be sharp corners or irregularities. Cloth bits and handles covered with colorless waterproof varnish.

Rectangular-shaped sockets with bits are chosen by marking, and when slotting through nests, marking is applied on both sides of the part (Fig. 33, but),non-through - on the one hand (Fig. 33, b).Before chipping, the part is placed on the table or

AT) d)

Fig. 32. Chisels and chisels:

but- carpentry bits, b- joinery chisels, at- flat chisels, g- semicircular chisels; I- canvas 2 - handle 3 - ring, 4 - cap

workbench and firmly secure it. When gouging through nests in order to avoid damage to the table cover or workbench, a piece of defective board is placed under the part. The bit must match the width of the socket to be selected. If in several parts it is necessary to choose the same nests, they are put in the foot and select the nests simultaneously in all the details.

The slotting of the nests begins like this: the chisel is set with a chamfer facing inwards, retreating 1 ... 2 mm from the marked risks, and lightly hitting a mallet or hammer on the handle deepens it into the wood (Fig. 33, at)and again hit the handle with a mallet or hammer, and then, shaking it, remove the wood and thus continue chiselling (Fig. 33, d). Retreat from marking risks by 1 ... 2 mm is necessary so that later this place can be cleaned with a chisel.

In order to increase labor productivity, reduce worker fatigue and comply with safety requirements for chiselling, you need to take the right position: you need to sit so that the hand, which contains a mallet or a hammer, passes over both legs.

When chiselling ensure that the edges of the nests are not wrinkled. To avoid creasing of edges, the slope of the bit should always be directed toward the middle of the slot.

When slotting through nests, wood is chosen first on one side, and then, turning the part, on the other.

Fig. 33. Work chisels:

but- selection of a through nest, b- sampling of the blind nest, at- the position of the bit (initial and final) on the marking of the socket, g- nest slotting procedure

For stripping and sampling sockets, grooves, spikes, chamfering used flat chisels(Fig. 32, c), and for stripping rounded spikes and processing concave and convex surfaces - semicircular chisels (Fig. 32, d) (GOST 1184-80). As in chisels, chisels canvases are made of tool steel with heat treatment of the working part, the handles are made of the same wood species as chisels. Wooden handles are made of hardwood and must have a metal cap. The cutting edge (blade) must be sharp. The shape and size of the collar should provide sufficient support for the handle. Burt should not have sharp corners. Pens are varnished.

In flat chisels, the canvas is a smooth, smooth strip ending in a sharp blade. The chisel blade in the work acts like a knife, cutting or dividing the wood fibers. When podstragivanii chisel hold the right hand for the handle. Move the chisel as far as possible along the fibers. When cutting with a chisel with the right hand, press the butt end of the handle, and with the left press the canvas with the chisel against the wood. The fingers of the left hand should not be in front of the chisel. The cut chips should be thin, soft and curled, not split.

Semicircular chisels treat curved surfaces and hollow out the holes of a curved shape. Chisel angle taper (25 ± 5) °. When working with a chisel, blows with a mallet or hammer are applied strictly in the center. Work chisel shown in Fig. 34

d) e) e) g)

Fig. 34. Chisel work:

but- cleaning of the cut places, b- transverse trimming, at- pruning along the fibers, g- chamfering, d- chamfering from the end, e- cleaning the butt, well- cutting

from under the shoulder

In order to avoid injury when working with a chisel, you should not cut in the direction of the supporting hand on yourself, on the weight, with the detail resting on the chest and in the case when the part lies on your lap. Leaving chisels and chisels with a blade to yourself or on the edge of a table or workbench is not possible, as if you drop a tool, you can get hurt.

Mechanized chiselling.The electric colliers choose rectangular-shaped sockets, grooves, etc. The cutting tool of the electric colliers is a continuous grooving chain, which is a set of links (cutters) that are connected pivotally.

Manual electric slotterIE-5601A (Fig. 35) has a built-in asynchronous squirrel-cage rotor electric motor, in which a drive sprocket is mounted on the end of the rotor shaft, driving a cutting chain stretched on the guide ruler. The depth of chiselling regulate the stroke. The head with the chain moves along guide columns mounted on the base. The chain is tensioned by movement with a stop screw and ruler. The head is lowered when the lever device is pressed - the handle, and automatically rises with cylindrical springs.

Depending on the size of the holes chosen, the rulers and chains of the required size are installed. The width of the groove, obtained in one pass, is equal to the width of the chain, and the length of the groove - the width of the guide line plus the double width of the chain. To select grooves of different sizes, a set of chains and rulers is required. When you

by machining a series of consecutive sockets to a straight line, you can form a groove of the required length. The depth of the hole to be selected is controlled by a travel stop set to the desired size. When lowering the head, it rests on the base.

Before starting work, it is necessary to sharpen the chain well, then put it on the sprocket and ruler of the electrician. The electric sinker is installed so that the chain is above the nest that is chosen. The material being processed or the part is placed on the table and firmly fixed. It is forbidden to work as an electric sinker if the part is not fixed or is on weight.

EL-5601A:

/ - chain 2 - spring guide column, 3 - shield 4 - electric motor 5 - casing, b - lever device (handle), 7 - screw, 8 - guide line, 9 - base

After turning on the electric motor by pressing on the lever device (handle), the electric arm is lowered together with the ruler and the chain tensioned on it. The chain should be lowered smoothly, without jolts, so that it is introduced into the wood gradually. The feed rate of the chain depends on the size of the selected sockets, the hardness of the wood being processed. When the chain comes out of the socket, it is necessary to ensure that the edges do not have stabs, tears, which are obtained by quickly removing the chain from the socket. The rubbing parts of the electric sinker must be coated with a lubricant.

At the end of the work, the chain, sprocket and guide line are washed in kerosene and lubricated with engine oil.

The electric sinker can be used as a stationary machine by attaching it to the table so that the guide line with the chain is perpendicular to the plane of the table, and the plane of the ruler is parallel to the edge of the table.

If during operation the body of the electrolinker becomes very hot, it is necessary to loosen the pressure and relieve the electric motor, change the blunt chain or loosen the chain tension. If the chain beats, you need to tighten it. In the case when the chain or the ruler is very hot, you need to adjust the tension of the chain, to eliminate the possible distortions of the ruler. If at chipping it turns out small chips in the form of chips, install a new chain. If the nest, the groove in the process of chiselling are oblique, it is necessary to align and strengthen the ruler extending to the side.

When working with power tools you need to use protective glasses. The body of the electric sinker must be grounded.

4 Joiner's, carpentry and parquet works

Fig. 36. Drills hand and drilling tools:

but- first drill, b- center drill, at- screw drill, g- twist drill, d- brace, e- drill, well- boring- gimlet: / - push head, 2 - crankshaft 3 - a pen, 4 - ring switch, 5 - ratchet mechanism, 6 - cartridge, 7 - head, 8 - threaded handle 9 - steel rod, 10 - cartridge, 11 - undercutter 12 - center (tip)

Manual drilling of wood.Round (cylindrical) holes for round studs, dowels, bolts are chosen with drills consisting of a shank, a rod, a cutting part and elements for chip removal. For drilling apply perovy, center, screw, spiral drills.

Drill bits(fig. 36, but)have a gutter shape; they choose the holes mainly for dowels. The groove is also used to emit chips. Due to the fact that he can not completely throw the chips out, in order to avoid overheating it often has to be removed from the hole. Therefore, the holes are unclean and not accurate enough. Drills have a length of 100 ... 170 mm, diameter 3 ... 16 mm with a gradation of 1 ... 2 mm.

Center drill bits(fig. 36, b)drill through and shallow holes across the fibers. Drilling deep holes with these drills is difficult due to poor ejection of chips. Work drills in one direction only. The drill is a rod, ending at the bottom of the cutting part, consisting of a trimmer, blade and guide center (tip). The diameter of the center drill 12 ... 50 mm, length depending on the diameter - 120 ... 150 mm. When working with these drills, you need to do pressure, otherwise they will not be introduced into the wood.

Screw drills(Fig. 36, c) is used for drilling deep holes across the fibers. The end of the drill has a fine-thread screw. When they drill, the holes are clean, since the chips are easily removed through the screw channels. The diameter of the drill 10 ... 50 mm, length 40 ... 1100 mm.

Twist drills(fig. 36, d)depending on the shape of the cutting part, they come with a conic sharpening (GOST 22057-76) and with the center and undercutters (GOST 22053-76). For removal of chips in the rod there are grooves located on the screw

lines. Drills with center and undercutter are produced with a diameter of 4 ... 32 mm, and with conical sharpening - with a diameter of 2 ... 6 mm (short series) and 5 ... 10 mm (long series).

The drills are driven by a crank and a drill.

Kolovorot is used for drilling holes when performing carpentry and formwork work, and also used for wrapping and unscrewing screws for glass and other types of work.

Brace with ratchet(fig. 36, e)is a crankshaft, in the middle of which is a handle for rotation. At one end of the crankshaft is located a cartridge for fastening drills, on the other - a pushing head. The ratchet should rotate to the right and to the left, and the direction of rotation is set by a switch ring. Chuck jaws should provide secure fastening tools. You can wrap bolts, screws with a rotary knob, for which, respectively, socket wrenches (square or hexagonal) and screwdrivers are inserted into the cartridge. Drills with a shank diameter up to 10 mm can be mounted in the brace. To screw the screws, screwdrivers are inserted into the brace. The crank, consisting of a cranked rod, four-jaw chuck, ring-switch, is made of structural steel. All parts of the kolovorot have a protective electroplated coating.

Holes with a diameter of 5 mm drilled drill drillDrill (Fig. 36, e)it is a screw-threaded rod with a handle. At one end of the rod there is a cartridge for mounting the drills, and at the other - a head. The rod, and with it, the drill bit is rotated by moving the threaded handle up and down.

For drilling deep holes use drill(Fig. 36, g), which is a rod with an eye for a handle located in its upper part, and with a screw drill at the other end (in the lower part).

Shallow holes in the wood of hardwoods under the screws drilled gimlet(fig. 36, h)having a diameter of 2 ... 10 mm. In order to avoid splitting the wood, the gimlet is periodically removed from the hole and cleaned of chips.

When using drills, holes are chosen by marking or pattern. The center of the holes is pre-punched with an awl. Before starting work, the drill should be well sharpened with a file with a small notch or on a special machine, and then firmly fastened in the chuck or drill bit. Drilling techniques are shown in Fig. 37.

During operation, it is necessary to ensure that the axis of rotation of the bend or drill coincides with the axis of the hole. When drilling vertical holes, the push knob is held with the left hand, and the right one is rotated by the handle.

Deep through holes are drilled on the markup with two