A myriad of joints can be used to connect wooden parts. The names and classification of carpentry joints, as a rule, vary significantly depending on the country, region, and even the woodworking school. The skill is to ensure that the accuracy of the performance ensures a properly functioning connection that can withstand the loads intended for it.

  Initial Information

Connection Categories

All connections (in the carpentry they are called knittings) of wooden parts by area of \u200b\u200bapplication can be divided into three categories (foreign version of the classification):

• box;
• frame (frame);
• for rallying / splicing.

Box connections are used, for example, in the manufacture of drawers and cabinet units, frame ones are used in window frames and doors, and rallying / splicing is used to obtain parts of increased size / width.

Many joints can be used in different categories, for example, butt joints are used in all three categories.

Material preparation

Even planed lumber may need some preparation.

• Cut the material with a margin of width and thickness for further planing. Do not cut the length yet.
• Choose the best quality face - face. Touch it all the way. Check on a ruler.
    After the final alignment, make a pencil mark the front side.
• Touch the front - clean - edge. Check with a straightedge and a square with respect to the front side. With planing, align warp. Mark the clean edge.
• With a gage, mark out the required thickness along all edges of the part outline. Touch up to this risks. Check with a ruler.
• Repeat for width.
• Now mark the length and the actual joints. Mark from the front and the clean edge.

Marking lumber

Be careful when marking lumber. Make sufficient allowances for cut widths, planing thicknesses and joints.

Keep all readings from the front side and the clean edge, on which put the appropriate marks. In frames and cabinets, these marks should look inward to improve manufacturing accuracy. To facilitate sorting and assembly, number the parts during their manufacture on the front side so that, for example, indicate that side 1 is connected to the end 1.

When marking the same parts, carefully align them and do the marking immediately on all workpieces. This will ensure that the markup is identical. When marking profile elements, note that there may be “right” and “left” parts.

  Butt joints

These are the simplest of carpentry joints. They can be included in all three categories of compounds.

Assembly

The butt joint can be strengthened with nails hammered at an angle. Drive the nails apart.

Trim the ends of the two parts evenly and connect them. Secure with nails or screws. Before this, glue can be applied to the parts to enhance fixation. Butt joints in frame structures can be strengthened with a steel plate or a wave key from the outside or with a wooden block fixed from the inside.

  Nugle / dowel connections

Wooden pins - today they are increasingly called dowels - can be used to strengthen the connection. These plug-in round spikes increase shear strength (shear), and due to glue they fix the assembly more reliably. Connections with dowels (dowels) can be used as frame connections (furniture), drawers (cabinets) or for rallying / splicing (panels).

Assembly of the nipple joint

1. Carefully cut all components to the exact dimensions. Mark the position of the crossbar on the front side and the clean edge of the rack.

2. Mark the center lines for the dowels at the end of the crossbar. The distance from each end must be at least half the thickness of the material. A wide crossbar may require more than two pins.

Mark the center lines for the dowels on the end of the crossbar and transfer them to the rack along the square.

3. Lay the stand and crossbar face up. On the square, transfer the center lines to the rack. Number and mark all connections if there are more than one pair of racks and crossbars.

4. Transfer this marking to the clean edge of the rack and the ends of the bar.

5. From the front, use the thickness gauge to draw the risk in the center of the material that intersects the marking lines. So the centers of the holes for the pins will be marked.

Draw a center line with a gage, crossing the marking lines, which will show the centers of the holes under the pins.

6. With an electric drill with a twist drill or a hand drill with a feather drill, drill the holes in all the details. The drill must have a center point and cutters. The hole across the fibers should have a depth of about 2.5 diameters of the nagel, and the hole in the end should have a depth of about 3 diameters. For each hole, make an allowance of 2 mm, this distance the plug should not go to the bottom.

7. Countersink remove excess fibers from the top of the holes. This will also facilitate the installation of the plug and create space for the adhesive securing the joint.

Nageli

The pins should have a longitudinal groove (now standard pins are made with longitudinal ribs) along which excess glue will be removed during assembly of the joint. If the nagel does not have a groove, then flatly plan it on one side, which will give the same result. At the ends there should be a chamfer to facilitate assembly and prevent damage to the hole with a pin. And here, if the dowels do not have a chamfer, make it a file or polish the edges of their ends.

Using centrics to mark pins

Mark and drill the crossbars. Insert in the holes for the dowels special nugget centric. Align the bar to the layout of the rack and squeeze the parts together. The points of the centrics will make marks on the rack. Drill holes on them. As an alternative, you can make a template from a wooden block, drill holes in it, fix the template on the part and drill holes for the holes through the holes in it.

Using a jig for screw connection

A metal conductor for nugget joints significantly facilitates the marking and drilling of holes for nagles. In box connections, the conductor can be used at the ends, but it will not act on the face of wide panels.

jig jig

1. Mark the center lines on the front of the material, which should have holes for the pins. Select the appropriate guide sleeve for the drill and insert it into the jig.

2. Align the alignment marks on the side of the conductor and lock the movable support of the guide sleeve.

3. Install the conductor on the part. Align the center notch with the center line of the pin hole. Tighten.

4. Install the depth gauge on the drill in the desired location.

Rallying

To obtain a wider wooden part, two parts of the same thickness can be joined along the edge with the help of pins. Fold the two boards with the wide sides together, precisely align their ends and grip this pair in a vice. On a clean edge, draw perpendicular lines that indicate the center lines of each pin. In the middle of the edge of each board with a thickness gauge, make risks across each previously marked center line. The intersection points will be the centers of the holes for the pins.

The pump connection is neat and durable.

  Cut-in / tie-in connections

A corner, middle, or groove joint is a corner or middle joint when the end of one part is attached to the formation and another part. It is based on a butt joint with an end cutout made in the face. Used in frame (frame houses) or drawer (cabinets) compounds.

Types of cut-in / tie-in connections

The main types of notch connections are the T-section in the dark / half-dark (often the term is replaced by the term “run-in / half-deep”), which looks like a butt joint, but stronger, the corner cut (angular connection) in the quarter and the corner cut in the dark / half-dark. The corner cut into the fold and the corner cut into the fold with dark / semi-dark are done the same way, but the fold is made deeper - two thirds of the material is selected.

Cutting

1. Mark the groove on the front of the material. The distance between the two lines is equal to the thickness of the second part. Continue the lines to both edges.

2. Using a gauge, mark the depth of the groove between the marking lines on the edges. Depth is usually made from one quarter to one third of the thickness of the part. Mark the waste material.

3. Secure the part with the C-clamp. Saw the shoulders from the back of the marking lines to the desired depth. If the groove is wide, make additional cuts in the waste to simplify the selection of material with a chisel.

Saw all the way to the marking line on the waste side, making intermediate cuts with a wide groove.

4. Using a chisel on both sides, remove excess material and check the evenness of the bottom. To level the bottom, you can use the dredge.

Remove the waste with a chisel, working on both sides, and align the bottom of the groove.

5. Check the fit, if the part is inserted too tight, you may need to cut it. Check perpendicularity.

6. The joint by the cutting can be strengthened by one of the following methods or a combination thereof:

• bonding and clamping until glue sets;
• screwing through the face of the outer part with screws;
• nailing at an angle through the face of the outer part;
• nailing obliquely through a corner.

The notch connection is strong enough

  Joints in groove and lateral crest

This is a combination of a notch in a quarter and a notch in a fold. It is used in the manufacture of furniture and the device slopes of window openings.

Connection

1. Make the ends perpendicular to the longitudinal axes of both parts. Mark the shoulder on one part by measuring the thickness of the material from the end. Continue marking on both edges and front.

2. Mark the second shoulder on the side of the end, it should be at a distance of one third of the thickness of the material. Continue to both edges.

3. Using a thickness gauge, mark the depth of the groove (one third of the thickness of the material) at the edges between the lines of the shoulders.

4. Saw the shoulders with a hacksaw with a hilt to the risks of a thicknesser. Remove the waste with a chisel and check for evenness.

5. With a scaler with the same setting, mark the line on the back and on the edges of the second part.

Advice:

• Joints such as joints in a groove and a lateral ridge can be easily made using a milling cutter and the corresponding guiding device - either only for a groove, or for a groove, and for a fold. For recommendations on the correct operation of the router, see p. 35.
• If the crest enters the groove too tight, trim the front (smooth) side of the crest or sand it with sandpaper.

6. From the front side with a thickness gauge, mark on the edges towards the end and on the end itself. Saw along the lines of the thickness gauge with a hacksaw with a pickaxe. Do not cut too deeply as this will weaken the joint.

7. Using a chisel, remove the waste. Check fit and adjust if necessary.

  Half tree connections

Half-tree joints relate to frame joints, which are used to join parts by plates or along the edge. The connection is made by sampling the same amount of material from each part, so that they are connected flush with each other.

Types of connections in the tree

Six main types of connections in the half-tree can be distinguished: transverse, angular, in the dark, angular on the whisker, dovetail and splicing.

Perform angular joint in half tree

1. Align the ends of both parts. On the upper side of one of the parts, draw a line perpendicular to the edges, stepping back from the end to the width of the second part. Repeat on the underside of the second part.

2. Set the thickness gauge to half the thickness of the parts and draw a line on the ends and edges of both parts. Mark the waste on the top side of one and the bottom side of the other part.

3. Clamp the part in a vice at an angle of 45 ° (face vertically). Carefully saw along the fibers close to the thickness gauge from the waste side until the saw reaches the diagonal. Turn the part over and continue to gently cut, gradually raising the handle of the saw until the saw comes out on the shoulder line at both edges.

4. Remove the part from the vise and lay it on the face. Press it firmly to the tsulag and clamp it with a clamp.

5. Saw the shoulder to the previously made cut and remove the waste. Align the irregularities of the sample with a chisel. Check the accuracy of the cutout.

6. Repeat the process on the second part.

7. Check fit of parts and, if necessary, align with a chisel. The connection should be rectangular, flush, without gaps and backlashes.

8. The joint can be strengthened with nails, screws, glue.

  Corner joints on the whisker

Corner joints are made using bevel ends and hide the end fiber, and also aesthetically more correspond to the angular rotation of the decorative lining.

Types of corner joints on the whisker

To make the bevels of the ends in an angular connection on the mustache, the angle at which the parts meet is divided in half. In a traditional joint, this angle is 90 °, so each end is cut to 45 °, but the angle can be both blunt and sharp. In uneven angular joints, parts with different widths are connected on the whisker.

Making angular connection on the mustache

1. Mark the length of the parts, bearing in mind that it should be measured along the long side, since the bevel will reduce the length inside the corner.

2. Having determined the length, mark the line at 45 ° - on the edge or on the face, depending on where the bevel will be cut.

3. Use the combined angle to mark the markings on all sides of the part.

4. For manual cutting, use a miter box and a hacksaw with a lug or a manual miter saw. Press the part firmly to the back side of the miter box - if it moves, the bevel will turn out uneven, and the connection will not fit well. If you just saw by hand, follow the process so as not to deviate from the marking lines on all sides of the part. Miter saw, if you have one, will make a very neat bevel.

5. Attach two parts to each other and check fit. You can correct it by trimming the surface of the bevel with a planer. Firmly fix the part and work with a sharp plane, exposing a small overhang of the knife.

6. The connection should be knocked down with nails through both parts. To do this, first place the parts on the surface and drive the nails into the outside of the bevel so that their tips slightly appear from the bevels.

Bait the nails in both parts so that the tips slightly protrude from the surface of the bevel.

7. Apply glue and tightly squeeze the joint so that one part protrudes slightly - overlapping another. Drive the nails into the protruding part first. Under hammer blows, when driving nails, the part will move slightly. The surfaces should be level. Nail the second side of the joint and drown the heads of the nails. Check the squareness.

First hammer the nails into the protruding part, and the impact of the hammer will move the joint to the desired position.

8. If due to irregularities in execution a small gap is obtained, iron the connection on both sides with the round shaft of the screwdriver. This will move the fibers, which will close the gap. If the gap is too large, you will either have to redo the connection, or close the gap with putty.

9. To strengthen the corner connection on the mustache, a wooden block can be glued inside the corner if it is not visible. If appearance is important, then the connection can be made on an insertable spike or secured with veneer dowels. Inside flat joints, pins or lamellas (standard flat insert spikes) can be used.

  Mustache splicing and splicing

Splicing on the mustache connects the ends of the parts located on one straight line, and the connection with cutting is used when it is necessary to connect two profile parts at an angle to each other.

Mustache splicing

When splicing on the mustache, the parts are connected with the same bevels at the ends so that the same thickness of the parts remains unchanged.

Splicing compound

Connection with cutting (with cutting, with fit) is used when it is necessary to connect two parts with a profile in the corner, for example, two skirting boards or cornice. If the part moves during its fastening, the gap will be less noticeable than with an angular connection to the mustache.

1. Fasten the first baseboard in place. Slide the second baseboard close to the wall close to it.

Fix the first baseboard in place and press the second baseboard against it, aligning it along the wall.

2. Swipe the profile surface of the fixed baseboard with a small wooden block with a pencil pressed to it. The pencil will leave a marking line on the plinth to be marked.

A bar with a pencil pressed to it, pointed to the second baseboard, draw along the relief of the first baseboard, and the pencil will mark the cut line.

3. Cut along the marking line. Check fit and adjust if necessary.

Sophisticated Profiles

Lay the first skirting board in place and placing the second skirting board in the miter box, make a bevel on it. The line formed by the profile side and the bevel will show the desired shape. Cut along this line with a jigsaw.

  Eye connections

Eye connections are used when you need to connect intersecting parts located “On the edge”, either in the corner or in the middle version (for example, the corner of the window binding or where the table leg connects to the crossbar).

Types of eye connections

The most common types of joints in the eye are corner and tee (T-shaped). For strength, the connection must be glued, but you can strengthen it with a nagle.

Connection to eye

1. Mark as you would for, but divide the material thickness by three to determine one third. Mark the waste on both parts. On one part, you will need to choose the middle. This groove is called the eye. On the second part, both side parts of the material are removed, and the remaining middle is called a spike.

2. Saw along the fibers to the shoulder line along the marking lines on the waste side. Saw off the shoulders with a hacksaw and a butt, and you get a spike.

3. Working from two sides, select material from the eye with a chisel / chisel for grooves or a jigsaw.

4. Check fit and adjust with a chisel if necessary. Apply glue to the surface of the joint. Check the squareness. Clamp the joint with the c-clamp for the glue to harden.

  Threaded connection to the socket

Threaded connections to a socket, or simply thorn connections, are used when two parts are joined at an angle or at an intersection. This is probably the strongest of all frame joins in carpentry, and it is used in the manufacture of doors, window frames and furniture.

Types of spike-to-socket connections

The two main types of spike connections include the usual spike connection to the socket and the stepwise connection to the socket (half-dark). The spike and nest are approximately two-thirds of the width of the material. The expansion of the nest is done on one side of the groove (semi-darkness), and a spike step is inserted into it from its corresponding side. Half-darkness helps to prevent the spike from twisting out of the socket.

Normal spike connection to socket

1. Locate the joint on both parts and mark on all sides of the material. The marking shows the width of the intersecting part. The spike will be at the end of the crossbar, and the nest will go through the rack. The spike should have a small allowance along the length for further stripping of the joint.

2. Select a chisel as close as possible to one third of the thickness of the material. Set the thickness gauge to the size of the chisel and mark the nest in the middle of the rack between the previously drawn marking lines. Work from the front. If desired, you can set the thicknesser solution to a third of the thickness of the material and work with it on both sides.

H. In the same way, mark the spike on the end and on both sides to mark the shoulders on the crossbar.

4. Clamp the auxiliary support in the vice in the form of a wooden trim high enough so that you can attach a stand to it, turned “on the edge”. Fasten the stand to the support by placing the clamp next to the marking of the socket.

5. Cut the nest with a chisel, making an allowance inward about 3 mm from each end so as not to damage the edges when sampling the waste. Keep the chisel straight while maintaining parallelism
  its edges of the plane of the rack. Make the first cut strictly vertically with the bevel sharpening toward the middle of the nest. Repeat from the other end.

6. Make a few intermediate cuts, holding the chisel at a slight angle and bevel sharpening down. Choose a retreat by acting as a chisel as a lever. Having deepened by 5 mm, make more cuts and select a waste. Continue to about half the thickness. Turn the part over and work the same way on the other side.

7. After removing the main part of the waste, clean the nest and cut the previously left allowance to the marking lines on each side.

8. Cut a spike along the fibers, leading a hacksaw with a pick along the marking line on the waste side, and cut the shoulders.

9. Check fit and adjust if necessary. The shoulders of the cleat should be neatly attached to the stand, the connection should be perpendicular and free from play.

10. To secure, you can insert wedges on both sides of the tenon. The clearance for this is done in the nest. When working with a chisel on the outside of the nest, expand approximately two-thirds of the depth with a slope of 1: 8. Wedges are made with the same bias.

11. Apply glue and squeeze tightly. Check the squareness. Apply glue to the wedges and drive them into place. Saw off the thorn stock and remove any excess glue.

Other stud connections

The studs for window frames and doors are somewhat different from the studs in the half-dark, although the technique is the same. Inside there is a fold and / or pad for glass or panel (panel). When making a spike in the socket on a part with a fold, make the plane of the spike in line with the edge of the fold. One of the shoulders of the crossbar is made longer (to the depth of the fold), and the second is shorter so as not to block the fold.

The stud connections for the parts with pads have a shoulder made with a cut to fit the profile of the pads. Alternatively, you can remove the trim from the edge of the socket and make a bevel or trimming in accordance with the reciprocal part.
  Other varieties of spike-to-socket connections:

• Side spike - in the manufacture of doors.
• Hidden beveled spike in half-darkness (with a beveled step) - to hide the spike.
• A thorn in the dark (steps of the thorn on its two sides) - for relatively wide parts, such as the lower door trim (block).

All these connections can be through, or can be deaf, when the end face of the spike will not be visible from the back of the rack. They can be strengthened with wedges or pins.

  Rallying

Finding wide, high-quality wood is becoming increasingly difficult and expensive. Moreover, such wide boards are subject to very large shrinkage deformations, which makes it difficult to work with them. To connect narrow boards along the edge into wide panels for countertops or workbench covers, they use cohesion.

Training

Before starting the rallying, you must do the following:

• If possible, pick up radial sawing boards. They are less susceptible to shrinkage deformations than tangential sawn timber. If tangential sawing boards are used, then place their sound side alternately in one and the other side.
• Try not to unite materials with different ways of sawing into one panel.
• In no case do not unite boards from different species of wood if they are not dried properly. They will give different shrinkage and crack.
• If possible, place the boards in one direction with the fibers.
• Before bonding, be sure to cut the material to size.
• Use only good quality glue.
• If the wood will be polished, select a texture or color.

Rallying on a smooth puffer

1. Place all boards face up. To facilitate subsequent assembly, mark the edges with a continuous pencil line drawn at the joints at an angle.

2. Stitch even edges and check fit to the corresponding adjacent boards. Align the ends or pencil lines each time.

3. Ensure that there are no gaps or flatness over the entire surface. If you squeeze the gap with a clamp or putty it, the joint will subsequently crack.

4. When planing short parts, grip two in a vice with your sides together and plan both edges at the same time. It is not necessary to maintain the rectangularity of the edges, since when docked, they will mutually compensate for their possible inclination.

5. Prepare for the butt joint and apply glue. By compressing with grinding, connect the two surfaces, squeezing out the excess glue and helping the surfaces to “stick” to each other.

Other ways of rallying

Other bonding compounds with different amplification are prepared in the same way. These include:

• with pins (dowels);
• in the groove and comb;
• at a quarter.

  Bonding and clamping

Bonding and fixing glued parts is an important part of woodworking, without which many products will lose strength.

Glues

Adhesive reinforces the bond by holding the parts together so that they cannot be easily disconnected. When working with adhesives, be sure to wear protective gloves and follow the safety precautions on the packaging. Clean the product from excess glue before setting it, as it can blunt the planer knife and clog the abrasive skins.

PVA (polyvinyl acetate)

PVA glue is a universal glue for wood. When still wet, it can be wiped off with a cloth dampened with water. It adheres perfectly to loosely adhering surfaces, does not require long-term fixation to set and sets in about an hour. PVA gives a sufficiently strong connection and sticks to almost any porous surface. It gives a permanent connection, but is not heat and moisture resistant. Apply with a brush, and on large surfaces, dilute with water and apply with a paint roller. Since PVA glue has a water base, it sets when set.

Contact adhesive

Contact adhesive glues immediately after application and joining of parts. Apply it on both surfaces and, when the glue becomes dry to the touch, connect them. It is used for laminate (laminate) or veneer for chipboard. No fixation required. It is cleared by solvent. Contact adhesive is flammable. Work in a well-ventilated area to reduce the concentration of fumes. Not recommended for outdoor use, as it is not moisture resistant and heat resistant.

Epoxy adhesive

Epoxy glue is the most durable of the glues used in woodworking, and the most expensive. This is a two-component resin-based adhesive, it does not shrink when set and softens when heated and does not creep under load. It is waterproof and sticks to almost all materials, both porous and smooth, with the exception of thermoplastics, for example, polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or plexiglass (organic glass). Suitable for outdoor use. In the non-solid state, it can be removed with a solvent.

Hot glue

Hot-melt solvent-free adhesive glues almost everything, including many plastics. It is usually sold in the form of glue sticks, which are inserted into a special electric gun for gluing. Apply glue, connect the surfaces and squeeze for 30 seconds. No fixation required. It is cleared by solvents.

Clamps for fixing

Clips come in a variety of designs and sizes, most of which are called clamps, but usually only a couple of varieties are required. Be sure to place a piece of wood waste between the clamp and the product to prevent dents from applying pressure.

Bonding and fixing technique

Before gluing, be sure to assemble the product “dry” - without glue. Lock if necessary to check connections and overall dimensions. If everything is normal, disassemble the product, arranging the parts in a convenient order. Mark the areas to be glued and prepare the clamps with the sponges / stops apart at the desired distance.

Frame assembly

Spread the glue evenly on all glued surfaces and quickly assemble the product. Remove excess glue and secure assembly with clamps. Compress the joints with uniform pressure. The clamps should be perpendicular and parallel to the surfaces of the product.

Place the clamps as close to the connection as possible. Check the parallelism of the crossbars and align if necessary. Measure the diagonals - if they are the same, then the rectangularity of the product is maintained. If not, then a light but sharp blow at one end of the rack can even out the shape. Adjust the clamps if necessary.

If the frame does not lie flat on a flat surface, then tap the protruding sections with a mallet through a wooden block as a gasket. If this does not help, you may need to loosen the clamps or clamp the wooden block across the frame with the clamps.

In the manufacture of carpentry, the main type of connection is spike, consisting of two elements: a spike and a socket, or eyelets. Depending on the thickness of the products and the required strength, the bars are connected to one, two or more spikes. An increase in the number of spikes increases the bonding area.

In accordance with GOST 9330-76 spike joints of the bars are angular end, angular middle and corner box.

Corner endbar connections are made on the spikes: open through single UK-1 (Fig. 48, a), open through double UK-2 (Fig. 48.6), open through triple UK-3 (Fig. 48, c), through a semi-dark UK-4 (Fig. 48, d), ckbcj with a semi-dark UK-5 (Fig. 48.5), non-through with a cargo module UK-6 (Fig. 48, e)through-with-dark UK-7 (fig. 48, x), through-through and through-through round plug-in spikes UK-8 (fig. 48, h)on the "mustache" with an inserted and through-through round stud UK-9 (Fig. 48, i), on the "mustache" with the inserted through-through flat stud UK-10 (Fig. 48, k), on the "mustache" with an inserted through-through flat stud UK-11 (Fig. 48, l). The dimensions of the spikes and other elements of the angular end spike connections are given in table. 5, and the types of angular middle and angular box joints are shown in Fig. 49 and 50.

The dimensions of the spikes and other elements of the angular middle joints should be as follows. In the compound US-3: Si \u003d 0.4 So! S 2 \u003d 0.5 (So - Si); b- not less than 2 mm; /, \u003d (0.3 ... 0.8) IN; 1 2 = \u003d s (0.2 ... 0.3) B |. In joints US-1, US-2, a double spike is allowed, with Si \u003d 0.2So; Rcorresponds to the radius of the cutter. For

5. Joiner, carpentry and parquet work

Fig. 48. Angled end connections:

a- on the spike open through single UK-1, b- on the spike open through double UK-2, in- on the thorn open through triple UK-3, g- on a thorn with a semi-dark through-passage UK-4, d- on a thorn with a semi-through through UK-5, e- on a thorn with a dark through-hole UK-6; f - on a thorn with a dark through-through UK-7, s- on round spikes inserted (dowels) through and through UK-8, and- on the "mustache" with a plug-in through-hole spike UK-9, to - on the "mustache" with a plug-in through-through spike UK-10, l- on the "mustache" with an inserted through flat stud UK-11

compound y "C-4: 5i \u003d S 3 \u003d 0.25 °; 5g \u003d 0.5 ; For connection US-5: S, \u003d (0.4 ... 0.5) S 0; / \u003d (0.3 ... 0.8) S; S 2 = 0.5 (S Q - - Si); b- not less than 2 mm; for connection US-6: / \u003d (0.3 ... 0.5) So;

Table 5.Dimensions of studs and other corner end joints

Continuation of the table. 5

b- not less than 1 mm; for connection US-7: rf \u003d 0.4; / \u003d (2.5 ... 6) d; / i \u003d / + 2 ... 3 mm; for connection US-8: / \u003d (0.3 ... 0.5) Bi; 5i \u003d \u003d 0, o5S b The resulting size should be rounded to the nearest size fr ^ "13, 14, 15, 16 and 17 mm), but not less than So.

The design values \u200b\u200bof the spikes and dowels of joints of type US are rounded to the nearest cutter size (4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 20, 25 mm), and the angle a is set depending on the design of the product. angular box connection UYA-1 (Fig. 50, a) should be: S: \u003d 5z \u003d 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16 mm; / \u003d So;S 2 must be at least 0.35 °. In compounds U I-2 S \\= \u003d 0.85So, and the size thus obtained is rounded