Installing an entrance door to an apartment is a task that many people face when planning to replace it. There are two solutions: pay for the installation of doors in the same store or company where you purchase them, or install new doors yourself.

This article is a specific example of installing an entrance door with your own hands, showing that if you have a couple of hours of free time, desire, and a minimum of tools, this task is within the capabilities of many..

During the renovation of the corridor, they decided to install a new entrance door. We decided to buy it not ready-made in the store, but to order it according to the dimensions of the opening. After reading advertisements and reviews, we chose the company. A representative arrived, took measurements, and two weeks later a new insulated metal door was delivered. To save money, we decided to install the front door ourselves.

Tools

Before starting work, you need to prepare a tool that will be useful in the future.

We will need:

• mount;
• perforator;
• drill with a diameter of 10 mm and a length of 150 mm;
• hammer;
• level;
• grinder with a metal disc;
• mounting foam;
• spray bottle with water;
• dowel-nails (in our case, 120 mm long and 10 mm in diameter);
• hacksaw for metal;
• masking tape (if there is no protective film);
• screwdriver;
• Phillips and flathead screwdrivers;
• spacer wedges.

Don't neglect your protective equipment. Be sure to wear gloves, and wear goggles when working with an angle grinder and a hammer drill.

Removing the old door

Using a pry bar, we dismantle the cash, if there is one. Having opened the door leaf approximately 90°, we slide the pry bar under it, closer to the side with the hinges and, lifting it, remove it. If the hinges are skewed or they are rusty and do not come off, you can try to unscrew them with a screwdriver or using a screwdriver. You can also simply cut the loops with a grinder.

We use a hacksaw to saw one of the frame posts and dismantle it using a pry bar. We have the upper cross member of the box behind the top of the side pillar, and the threshold behind the bottom. Finally, we dismantle the remaining rack.

It is advisable to unscrew or pull out all fasteners. If this is not possible, cut them with a grinder or a hacksaw, and hammer the protruding parts back into the wall. Remove loose plaster from the walls around the perimeter of the opening and clean the floor surface of debris.

Installing a new entrance door in an apartment

We insert the box into the opening, ours is monolithic, after first removing the door leaf from it. We set it according to level. First, apply a level to the side post on which the hinges are located, along the front and inside. We used a magnetic level. It is convenient for them to work with metal structures, since both hands remain free. The length should be from 400 to 800 mm. A level with a shorter length may cause an error, and a longer length may not be convenient to work with. In addition, with a level longer than 800 mm, it will be difficult to set the horizontal, because Usually the width of the door leaf at the doors in the apartment is 900 mm.

Installing the box level.

If necessary, to achieve the level, we hammer wedges between the wall and the frame, or the floor and the frame. Since our old door frame was made of wood, we did not prepare the wedges in advance, but made them out of it.

We use wooden wedges of the required size.

Having achieved the desired verticality and horizontality, we fix the box onto the mounting plate located at the top hinge. To do this, use a hammer drill to make a hole in the wall and drive a dowel-nail into it.

Hanging the door

It is advisable to immediately lubricate the hinges with machine oil. We check the level again. If necessary, add additional wedges.

After making sure that everything is in order, we fix the stand with hinges to the remaining mounting plates.

We close the door. Align the side post on the lock side. We make sure that the gap between the door leaf and the pillar is uniform over the entire height. To do this, we move the stand until we get the desired result. We check that the locks close and open freely. We attach the rack to the mounting plates by making holes in the wall with a hammer drill and driving in dowel nails.

Use a spray bottle to moisten the gap between the wall and the frame around the entire perimeter. Let the water absorb.

Fill the gap with foam. If you have no experience working with foam and the frame of the front door is not protected by film, then it is better to paste it around the perimeter with masking tape so as not to stain it with foam.

Close the door and let the foam dry for 24 hours. At this point, the installation of the entrance door to the apartment can be considered complete. In the future, we finish the entrance door slopes with plaster, plasterboard or panels.

Particularly resistant and durable, indestructible steel doors are steadily displacing their wooden and wood-shaving counterparts from all areas of the modern construction industry. Massive and strong metal doors reliably protect homes from unauthorized intrusions, and therefore our compatriots willingly install them in their city apartments and private country houses, and often, in order to save money, they prefer to do it themselves. In fact, self-installation of a steel entrance door is not a problem for a person who sufficiently possesses the necessary construction skills, but inexperienced beginners will be helped to cope with this work correctly by the step-by-step instructions in our article; performing particularly complex actions can be mastered with the help of a video.

How to install a steel entrance door: instructions

All work on installing a steel entrance door is divided into 3 standard basic stages:

• preparatory operations, including selecting tools, dismantling the old door and preparing the doorway;
• installation work - installation and fastening of the door frame, hanging the door;
• finishing procedures, which include checking and debugging the operation of locks, adjusting the movement of the door leaf, and sealing technological gaps.

Advice! A metal door block is a bulky and very heavy structure, so to install it you will certainly need a dexterous, muscular assistant.

Stage 1 - preparation

Step 1. Selection of materials and tools.

To work you will need:

• a hammer drill or a powerful impact drill equipped with “drill” and “chisel” attachments;
• angle grinder (grinder);
• plumb line and building level;
• sledgehammer and hammer;
• tape measure and marking pencil;
• medium-sized crowbar or large nail puller;
• an axe, a wood saw and a piece of board;
• several cylinders of polyurethane foam or a high-grade cement solution.

Step 2. Dismantling the old door.

1. Remove the old door leaf from the hinges. If this is not possible for some reason, unscrew the screws securing the hinges to the hinges and remove the door along with the awnings.

2. In several places, cut the beams of the old door frame with a grinder or a hacksaw, pry up the side posts with a crowbar and, carefully, so as not to damage the partition, tear them off the brick or concrete base.

3. Remove the top beam and threshold in the same way.

Step 3. Preparing the opening.

1. After the box is removed from the doorway, use a nail puller or pliers to pull out the remaining nails from the walls.

2. Remove pieces of thermal insulation material (if it was laid between the core and the wall).

3. Carefully beat the plaster down to the base of the walls (if you find wooden chips in them, pull them out and seal the holes with mortar).

4. Try on the door block to the prepared opening.

Important! In the case where the initial measurements were made correctly, the door frame made in accordance with them should freely fit into the opening so that there are technological gaps of 20-25 mm on each side between its beams and the walls.

If the block fits into the opening properly, you will not need to follow the next step of the instructions.

5. When an employee of the manufacturer made a mistake with the calculations, and the box turned out to be too large or small for your doorway, you will have to work harder and expand or reduce it accordingly.

6. To increase the size of the opening, beat the excess wall with a hammer drill; to reduce it, increase the missing volume with high-quality concrete mortar.

Stage 2 - installation work

Step 1. Installation of the box.

1. Together with an assistant, insert a new metal frame (without the door leaf) into the prepared opening. To prevent the block from falling out of the hole in the wall, first secure it with wooden wedges. Cut the wedges in advance and insert them with little force at 20-centimeter intervals along the entire perimeter of the box.

2. Using a level and plumb line, in all accessible planes, as carefully as possible, check the vertical installation of the tray. If a discrepancy is detected, loosen or drive the wedges deeper, thereby moving the box in the desired direction.

3. When the desired result is achieved, fix all the wedges as firmly as possible so that the tray does not move during the process of drilling mounting holes in the walls, and once again make sure that it is vertical.

Important! If, in order to save money, the manufacturer did not make holes for bolts in the frame of your new door, drill them yourself before installing the frame. The standard number of holes is 3 pcs. on vertical posts and 2 on horizontal posts.

4. Drill holes in the walls for anchor bolts through the mounting holes in the hinge jamb. Start drilling from the top point of the jamb; for drilling, use a Pobedit drill bit of suitable length and diameter.

If your inexpensive door does not include fastening hardware, purchase 150 mm anchor bolts with a diameter of 12-15 mm yourself.
Insert anchors into the finished sockets and tighten them.

Step 2. Hanging the door.

5. After lubricating the hinges, temporarily hang the door on the jamb. Check the movement of the door - it should not squint or close spontaneously. If the door moves smoothly and turns in its hinges without applying significant force, it means that the frame is positioned correctly and can be further secured.

6. To do this, remove the door from the awnings, drill holes in the opposite wall in the same way and secure a stand with a locking strip in it, then secure the threshold and, at the end, the lintel.

7. Close the anchor heads with decorative caps and finally hang the door leaf.

Stage 3 - finishing

Step 1. Adjusting the locks, checking and adjusting the door travel.

1. Install all the accessories supplied with it on the door.

2. Open the door 45 and then 90 * - in such positions it should not move spontaneously.

3. Close the door with the latch and check if it has any play in this state.

4. Check the gaps between the posts and the door leaf - according to the rules, they should not exceed 4 mm.

5. Check the soft operation of the locking mechanisms; eliminate possible problems by moving the counter plates located on the locking post of the box.

Step 2. Sealing technological gaps.

1. Cover the door frame with masking tape and cover the door leaf with protective film.

After installing the door, the threshold and walls are covered with decorative trims

Installing an entrance door is a serious undertaking that can have varying degrees of complexity depending on the type of structure. Most often, installation work is carried out by companies that produce doors. To save money, you can perform this procedure yourself. Before starting work, the main stages and rules by which the front door is installed are studied: installation (with the sequence of work), building codes.

Dimensions and types of designs. Standard door parameters. How to choose entrance doors with a frame. Rules for choosing a metal door.

After each fastening, it is necessary to control the accuracy of installation of the box. Checking the sides is carried out using a building level at all stages of installing an iron entrance door.
Installation of the entrance metal group must begin from a certain side on which the hinges are located. Moreover, the operation must be carried out from top to bottom.

How to install an entrance door in openings made of different materials: installation features

Currently, there are three most common types of materials used in construction: foam, gas and expanded clay concrete. Installation work differs in features depending on which type of raw material is used in a particular case.

Helpful information! The materials listed above are used to construct buildings that belong to the group of fragile load-bearing structures.

How to install a metal entrance door in this case? The installation process in this situation is carried out taking into account two rules, which are described in detail in building codes (SNiP).
The first of them tells us that to increase the strength of the structure it is necessary to use a larger number of locking elements.

As mentioned above, to secure the door you will need three points on one end side. For a door structure installed in an opening made of expanded clay concrete (or other similar material), this number will be higher - from 4 to 6. Moreover, the depth at which the fixing elements should be located is at least 20 cm.

How much does it cost to install a door in this case? Professional services in such a situation will cost several thousand rubles. Self-installation of the entrance group allows you to save money, but you will still have to spend money on additional materials.

For fastening to a wall that consists of foam concrete, it is strictly forbidden to use traditional metal anchors. This is due to the fact that they quickly become loose in soft walls during operation. The most suitable option in such a situation is chemical anchors.

The second point that you need to pay attention to is additional frames. Soft walls require strengthening. For this purpose, a crimping structure consisting of two frames is used. Such elements are made from profiled steel pipes, the width of which can be 40 or 50 mm. Both frames are fixed to each other using steel plates.

How to install the front door correctly: completion of the installation process

After fixing the door structure to the opening, it is necessary to check the quality of its work. If the door opens and closes without problems, then you can proceed to the final stage of the installation process - finishing. To do this, first of all you will need to remove the door leaf and cover the surfaces of the door frame with masking tape. Let's consider the sequence of actions during finishing in more detail.

Note! The cost of installing finished metal entrance doors can vary greatly. The cost of the door, its weight, the material from which the product is made, as well as the installation option and additional work - all this is reflected in the final price.

After preparing the door group for finishing, it is necessary to foam the gap between the side walls and the doors. Such an operation allows you to achieve two goals: strengthen the opening and insulate it. The same can be done using cement mortar. The next step is to putty the surfaces and level them as much as possible. In order to achieve a good result, it may be necessary to use several layers of solution.

Next you need to make slopes. Subsequently, they are treated with paint or sheathed with decorative materials. After this, the extensions are installed on the front door. Once installation is complete, you can remove the masking tape.

Subsequently, the platbands are fastened, and several other operations are performed. It is important to remember that the platbands are installed from the outside. If wood is used as a door material, then these elements are fixed to the door using self-tapping screws.

Experts recommend recessing screw heads into the wood no more than 0.5 mm. As a rule, platbands are attached to a metal door with screws. Then you need to install the handles, lubricate the hinges of the door leaf and hang it.

Installing an entrance door in a wooden house

Installation of the entrance group in a wooden house is carried out using casing. This design is also called a pigtail. It is a frame made of wooden blocks of appropriate thickness. This part has a movable attachment to the frame. The joining of individual elements of such a structure is carried out using grooves and tenons. After installing the frame, the door frame is fixed to it.

If desired, you can install a metal entrance door in a wooden house. This is facilitated by the casing frame. Its installation is an important undertaking, which determines how convenient the operation of the front door will be. It performs a very important function, as it acts as a counterweight to the shrinkage of a wooden residential building.

The organization of the casing frame begins with the formation of the first groove, which is made in the doorway. For the pigtail, a timber with a non-standard shape is used - in the form of the letter “T”. The groove width indicator should be slightly smaller than the similar tenon parameter. After organizing the groove, you need to hammer a tenon into it. In this way, the frame is sequentially formed.

Installing wooden entrance doors differs from installing a metal group. Here it is worth considering the differences in fasteners, as well as taking into account the characteristics of the materials. For example, a wooden door, like the building itself made of the same material, is subject to seasonal expansion and contraction.

Important! There should be a decent gap between the posts and the opening - approximately 3-4 cm. It is necessary to compensate for the expansion of the wood. This gap must be closed using mineral wool.

Many people are interested in the question of how much it costs to install a metal entrance door in a wooden house. The average price in this case is 4 thousand rubles. After installing the frame, the door frame is fixed to it. Anchors are not used in this case, as they are useless. Instead, it is customary to use long screws. They are screwed into pre-prepared holes. The drill for organizing such recesses should have a smaller diameter than that of self-tapping screws. This will allow them to be pressed tightly into the wood and prevent them from loosening.

How to finish the front door with MDF panels?

One of the most popular ways to finalize a door leaf is to cover it with MDF panels. The main advantage of this material is the ease of installation. If necessary, overlays made of MDF are mounted on old doors, transforming them. Currently, there are varieties of these panels:

• veneered;
• laminated;
• anti-vandal.

Veneered. Installing this type of MDF panel on the front door is a common option. This variety is highly environmentally friendly and also resistant to cracking. The appearance of such a panel is also quite presentable - it is made to look like wood. Experts advise purchasing similar trim for doors in an apartment building.

Laminated. The main advantage of laminated panels is that they have an affordable price. The products, due to the peculiarities of their structure, provide good sound insulation. Another advantage of such panels is their long service life. The price of installing a metal entrance door to an apartment with a laminated coating ranges from 3 to 5 thousand rubles.

Anti-vandal. This material is made from a wood fiber base, which is subsequently covered with a layer of plastic. Such panels are highly resistant to mechanical damage (hence the name). Vandal-proof MDF sheets are also resistant to temperature changes. Experts recommend using this type of wood-fiber panels for the exterior decoration of entrance door structures that have direct access to the street. Of the minuses, it is worth noting that the price of installing a metal door with such cladding is quite high.

Choosing such an important design as an entrance door requires knowledge of certain nuances. Before purchasing an entrance unit, experts recommend paying attention to several important points. First of all, you need to know that the production of metal input groups is regulated by special documents (in particular, GOST). They indicate all the necessary information about the physical and geometric characteristics of the doors. Manufacturers must produce products that comply with GOST.

Helpful information! Before purchasing a metal entrance structure, it is recommended to familiarize yourself with the provisions of GOST. This document also controls the installation of entrance structures. It should only be carried out by special teams that have permission for this type of work. The cost of installing doors is not indicated in GOST.

The main function of the entrance group is that it must protect the home from entry by unauthorized persons, and therefore the quality of the door plays a very important role. In addition, it is worth paying attention to the lock, since the safety of the entire structure as a whole depends on its type.

It is recommended to take into account the price of metal entrance doors. Installing a cheap Chinese design is not the best option if the goal is to protect your home from intruders. Such doors can be easily broken into by intruders.

For additional protection, you will need to strengthen the door leaf with a metal frame made of profiled steel. This frame is fixed on the outside of the structure.

Installing an entrance door (metal or wood) requires certain knowledge in the construction industry. Poor installation can lead to distortion of the structure or to its complete failure. Therefore, it is recommended to follow the installation instructions. If necessary, you can always contact specialists who will carry out a quick and high-quality installation of the entrance structure.

The threshold of a private house regularly comes into contact with moisture from shoes that have just been walked in puddles or snow. Doors at the entrance are exposed to sunlight, temperature changes and strong winds. To prevent these negative factors from spoiling the product and reducing the temperature inside the living space, it is important to correctly install entrance doors in a private home, which is carried out taking into account the negative effects and using the right materials.

Preparing the opening for installing doors to the house

It is better to replace a street door in a private house in dry, warm weather, because unforeseen difficulties and lack of experience can extend the process for half a day or more, as a result of which the living rooms will cool down if it is cold outside. It all starts with dismantling the old structure, during which the canvas is removed from the hinges, and the fastening of the door frame is cut with a grinder and a thin abrasive disc. Having plucked the frame from the wall with a pry bar, the structure is removed.

A wooden beam on which the box was installed often remains on the threshold. It must be checked for integrity by trying to pierce it in several places with an awl. If a thick needle enters with difficulty, then the wood can be coated with paint and left. This will protect the material from moisture penetrating under the transition. When rotten, the block is removed and a similar one is placed in its place. If the threshold is made of brick, then you need to remove traces of mortar from the surface and the outside so that nothing interferes with the leveling of the door frame. To protect from the sun, it is better to equip the porch with a canopy, which will also protect from precipitation.

Installing an entrance door to a private house will be easy if the dimensions of the box are 20-50 mm smaller in width and height than the dimensions of the opening. This must be taken into account at the stage of taking measurements and selecting a product. If the box fits tightly into the opening, then with uneven floors or walls, adjusting the position will become impossible, so part of the wall will have to be cut off. In a private house, it is necessary to connect lighting or an outlet to the street to connect a watering pump and other needs. One of the ways is under the door frame, so when preparing the opening for these purposes, mortgages in the form of a plastic pipe are placed.

Correct installation of a street door in a private house

In order for the entrance to be well insulated from freezing, it is necessary to correctly design the junction of the frame and the wall. The installation of a street door in a private house is carried out with the door leaf initially removed so that it does not distort the structure and does not create unnecessary stress on the hands. The box is filled from the inside with foam plastic, glued to liquid nails, or with mineral wool, held in place by expansion. This will protect against the formation of condensation and drips in the hallway.

The box must be covered with masking tape so that when working with a tool or foaming the installation gap at the end, you do not spoil the powder coating. Next, installing a metal door in a private house with your own hands is possible with an assistant, due to the weight of the product 60-100 kg, and is carried out in the following sequence:

1. The door frame is inserted into the opening until the trim fits completely.
2. Plastic wedges are installed under it, sold in hardware stores for these purposes. In the absence of plastic devices, homemade wooden ones are used. The goal is to spread the structure to the sides.
3. A bubble level is used to check the threshold relative to the horizontal and the rack to align the vertical. To raise the angle of the box or change the slope inside the opening, adjust the thickness of the wedge.
4. Once a level position is achieved, the drill is marked, which can be done by attaching an anchor to it and marking the end with masking tape. You need to start drilling from the top on the hinge side.
5. The anchor is inserted into the hole and driven through a screwdriver. It needs to be tightened so that the fixation becomes rigid. After which a second similar fastening unit is mounted.
6. Now you can hang the canvas on the hinges and make sure there are no distortions under load. When everything is in order, the remaining anchors are placed.
7. When sealing an installation gap, it is better to use foam with a low coefficient of expansion, which will not create excessive pressure on the metal, but will insulate the gaps well.

The Reliable Doors company offers to install an iron door in a private house in compliance with all current building codes, which will ensure high insulation of the entrance from freezing and noise. We have extensive experience in installing doors in openings of various thicknesses and will ensure the correct location to facilitate long-term operation.

Depending on the thickness of the wall, there are two ways to attach the front door:

1. On mounting plates;
2. Inside the walls.

Mounting on mounting plates

3-4 plates protrude from the sides of the door frame. They have holes for driving steel rods. The box must be aligned with the outer plane of the walls. There should be a gap of 1-2 cm on each side for alignment, which is done with wedges. Steel rods are driven into the holes using a sledgehammer, then the ends of the rods are either welded to the box or riveted. Instead of steel rods, reinforcement or anchor bolts are suitable. As a rule, this method is used in apartments.

Mounting inside walls

Please note that This method is only suitable for walls with a thickness of at least 20 cm. Otherwise, the door frame structure will be very vulnerable in the wall (the probability of tearing out is very high). Therefore, this method is used mainly in private homes. The door frame is secured through holes inside it. If the holes are provided by the manufacturer, then the rods are driven into them and closed with plugs. If there are no holes, they are drilled independently, and after driving in the rods, they are assigned from the inside through the side holes in the box. Do not forget about the technological gap of 1 cm on each side. The cross-section of the pins or bolts must be at least 1.5 cm (preferably 2 cm), and the length must be at least 10 cm (preferably 15 cm).

Metal entrance door installation technology

Installation of the box

First of all, it needs to be fixed using wooden wedges, which should be slightly thicker than the technological gaps. They need to be driven between the opening and the frame and the level checked. You need to start installing the box from the top corner of the hinge side. If everything is good, we drill holes in the wall through the mounting plates (depth about 10 cm, diameter about 1.5 cm), into which we then hammer steel pins or bolts. Next, the pins are welded to the mounting plates. It is advisable to check the level of the box again.

Inserting the door into the hinges

First you need to lubricate the hinges and put bearings in them (balls should be included in the kit). Then we put the door on the hinges and check the smoothness of movement (by obviously tightening the fittings). You also need to maintain a uniform gap of 2-4 mm across the entire height between the door on the lock side and the frame. Check the tight fit of the door to the frame when closed (there should be no blowing from under the rubber seals). If everything is good, then we finally tighten the bolts or carefully finish off the rods in the plates of the box and weld them.

Foaming gaps

If you are concerned about the box becoming dirty, you can apply masking tape around the perimeter of the box. Then be sure (!) to moisten the gap with water so that the foam adheres as firmly as possible to the box and the opening. For better and even application of foam, we recommend using a mounting gun. After foaming, leave the opening to dry for a day or at least overnight (the door should be closed). Then cut off the excess foam with a utility knife, remove the tape, and plaster the uneven walls.

How to adjust a metal entrance door

You just need to experiment with turning the screws. If the door jams at the bottom, then the lower fasteners are adjusted, and vice versa. Different articles recommend different ways to adjust the screws. But, since manufacturers fix door hinges differently, you will only be able to determine the correct screw for adjustment on site.

Here is one option: if the hinge is fastened with 3 screws, then first loosen the outer ones, and then adjust the middle one.