I replaced the CO-505 meter in the apartment panel with a Mercury 201 meter. Now it is necessary to replace the machines and install an RCD in the apartment panel, this must be done for several reasons. The photo below shows the apartment panel and the diagram of the panel from the developer at the time of delivery of the house.

Why is it necessary to change the automatic devices in the apartment panel and install an RCD? Because the apartment panel was assembled by the developer with gross violations, namely:

Firstly— the cross-section of the input wire of the PPV (commonly called “noodles”), which comes from the floor panel to the apartment panel, is 4 sq. mm. and on such a wire, to protect it, an input circuit breaker of no more than 25A is installed, and the developer installed an input circuit breaker of 40A in the apartment panel, i.e. It turns out that in case of high load in the apartment, our input wire will melt, and the 40A circuit breaker will not turn off. Therefore, it is necessary to install a 25A input circuit breaker in the apartment panel to protect the PPV wire of 4 sq. mm;

Secondly— the outgoing circuit breakers in the apartment panel are set to 25A, which is also a gross violation. Because all household sockets are designed for a current of no more than 16A, and even then, if these sockets are from quality manufacturers, and if they are from Turkey or China, then there will not be 16A there. The lights and sockets in the apartment are connected with a 3x2.5 PPV wire; one wire from the 25A circuit breaker in the apartment panel goes to both the light and the sockets. We will install circuit breakers with a rated current of 16A in the apartment panel so that our sockets do not melt;

Thirdly— let’s throw out all the Chinese IEK machines, and install more reliable “home” ABB machines in the apartment panelSH 200 series;

fourthly— we will install in the apartment panel an RCD from ABB “home” series FH 202 with a rated current of 40A, a step higher than the 25A input circuit breaker. RCDs from well-known ABB brands,Schneider Electric, Legrand does not exist at 32A. I note that we installed a 50A RCD with a leakage current of 30 mA in the floor panel, but again, this is Sassin from China, which you should not trust with your life. But we will not remove the Chinese RCD in the floor panel; we will leave it as additional differential protection.

Because We add an RCD to the apartment panel, then the layout of the apartment panel will change relative to the original panel diagram from the developer.

Apartment panel. Scheme.

Let's start replacing the machines and RCDs in the apartment panel. First what needs to be done is turn off the input circuit breaker and RCD in the floor panel. Then we unscrew the metal panel (plastron) in the apartment panel and “mark” the wires with electrical tape, blue for the working zero N, yellow-green for protective PE, we don’t touch the phase wire, it remains white. You can apply markings with a regular pen or marker, but you need to be careful with the wires so as not to erase the inscriptions. Our wires are all white (the developer, as usually happens, saves on everything) and it is easy to confuse or forget where in the apartment panel we have a phase, where is zero, and where is the protective conductor.

After this, you can unscrew the wires from the machines. The zero working and protective conductors of the outgoing lines to the apartment can not be touched, because Our machines will be single-pole. The first thing we install in the apartment panel is on a DIN rail and connect the ABB 25A input circuit breaker. PPV wire 4 sq. mm. Ours is mono-core, so there is no need to crimp it with the NShVI ferrule.

Next, we install and connect into the apartment panel according to the diagram a 40A ABB RCD with a leakage current of 30 mA. We connect the RCD in the apartment panel with a PV-3 stranded wire, the ends of which are crimped with gray NShVI sleeve lugs for 4 sq. mm.

We install single-pole (single-module) ABB SH 201 16A circuit breakers on a DIN rail in the apartment panel.

We will connect single-pole circuit breakers in the apartment panel with a comb, which we still have after dismantling the IEK circuit breakers.

You should pay attention to ensure that the comb fits, because... It happens that machines and combs from different machines do not fit together well.

The comb is not installed quite level, because... The photo was taken even before the machine contacts were tightened.

We connect the phase wires of the outgoing lines to single-pole circuit breakers in the apartment panel.

We check the tightness of the contacts of the machines and the RCD. We supply voltage to the apartment panel by turning on the RCD in the floor panel. We turn on the 25A input circuit breaker, check the operation of the RCD by pressing the “TEST” button, it should turn off. Next, we supply voltage to consumers in the apartment by turning on single-pole circuit breakers.

If everything works for us, the light is on, then we cover the machines and RCDs in the apartment panel with a metal panel and paste the designations of the machines and RCDs into the apartment panel.

Well, that’s all, we installed and connected ABB automatic circuit breakers and RCDs to the apartment panel. I think that everyone needs to inspect the apartment and floor panels, and, if necessary, eliminate errors, because the electrical safety of your family, house or apartment depends on this, first of all.

Thank you for your attention.

You can start directly assembling the panel after drawing up a diagram of the panel, laying all the electrical wiring routes along the grooves, ceiling, etc. Some order ready-made solutions according to pre-calculated groups and loads, and then all that remains is to connect the supply and outgoing wires. The article will discuss the process of independently performing all types of work on assembling the shield.

Let’s take the average data for a small apartment, which we will use when assembling the panel:

• ⚡ number of groups - 8-10
• ⚡ there is an RCD or difavtomat in the panel
• ⚡ automatic switches are installed on outgoing groups
• ⚡ total number of modular spaces for devices - up to 20

Electrical panel assembly tool

Tools and devices that you will need to use in order to assemble the shield with your own hands efficiently and competently:

It is advisable at the preliminary stage to insert the cables into the panel not haphazardly, but in order, according to numbered groups.

Let's say from the first to the tenth groups, from left to right. To ensure that the bundle of cables does not interfere with the assembly process, make an improvised hook on the side of the shield from scrap materials, and bend the cables and secure them to this device.

Let's get straight to work.

The procedure for assembling a 220V electrical panel

1. Stripping the cable

Using a knife, remove the outer insulation from all cables inserted into the shield and mark the cores by groups. Bend the numbered wires and secure them to a homemade hook on the side of the shield.

2.Trying on distances

Before connecting the wires, first try on and estimate the places where the modular equipment will be located and how long the wires are needed to reach them.

Install the DIN rail, zero bus and ground bus. You don’t screw or secure anything, just try it on. Your task is to understand the general location of the machines and where the wires are laid. What you should pay special attention to:

• ⚡ distance between rows of machines
• ⚡ distance between machines and zero tires

Try to make these distances not too small, otherwise in the further installation process it will be extremely inconvenient to insert and connect the wires.

3. Grounding and grounding bars

After preliminary fitting, mount and secure the zero busbar and grounding busbar in the panel. Above the terminals of the busbars you sign the group numbers.

Since the grounding wires never burn out, the grounding bus can be mounted on top of the shield, without any extra wire. But it’s better to place the zero one at the bottom. In case of unforeseen circumstances, you will have a certain supply of wire and by moving the busbar higher, you will be able to disconnect all the equipment again without replacing or extending the conductors.

Select the neutral and grounding conductors from the bundle of cleaned wires (the neutral conductor is usually blue, the grounding conductor is yellow-green), strip them with an insulation stripper and connect them one by one to the busbars. There is no need to make any extra supplies or additional bends.

4. Assembly of modular equipment in the electrical panel

Mount and secure DIN rails. Previously laid protective conductors (neutral and grounding) must be behind the DIN rail. Sequentially click the machines onto the DIN rail according to your groups.

Follow this layout of modular equipment:

• ⚡ The first is the introductory circuit breaker or load switch
• ⚡ then comes the voltage relay (if you have provided it in the circuit)
• ⚡ then machines for the most powerful consumers (hob, oven, split system) or RCDs with differential circuit breakers
• ⚡ simple machines for sockets and switches are located in the bottom row

Try to install all automation in the center, leaving more space on the sides for laying conductors or for installing additional modular devices in the future.
To ensure that modular equipment does not ride on the DIN rail, it is very convenient to use clamps.

5.Connecting wires

Start wiring from the top row. From the bundle of phase outgoing conductors, select those groups that go to the top row and tie them into a bundle with cable ties. Lay the bundle along the edges of the shield, form a comb at the end with the letter G and insert the stripped wires from the bottom of the machines. Then install the lower rows of machines and repeat all operations.

6.Comb shank

To sequentially connect machines located in the panel in one row, we use a comb busbar. We cut it to the required length according to the number of machines in the rows and insert it into the upper terminals of the machines and tighten the screws.

Please note that if you have budget machines without an additional contact specifically designed for a comb bus, then the bus must be inserted into the machine in such a way that the protruding part of the bus faces you.

Then you can easily insert a wire into the contact of the machine along with the busbar contact, and when tightening the machine it will not bend and the conductor will not come out of the contact.

7. Internal switching of the shield

For further disconnection of switching, use pieces of prepared wire PV3*10 (for connecting the very first machines in a row), PV3*1.5 (for zero contacts of the voltage relay) and PV3*2.5 for difavtomats and RCDs of individual groups.

If single-core wires are used, then bend the end of the wire entering the machine twice, thereby increasing the useful area of ​​​​contact with the contact.

Well, for stranded ones, be sure to use sleeve tips.

As you know, repairs are akin to a small-scale natural disaster, and one of its integral components is the electrification of residential or business premises. We remember how important a role electricity plays in a home when it suddenly disappears due to an accident. Providing an apartment or private house with power supply, as a rule, includes two basic components: installation of electrical wiring and assembly of an electrical panel.

Each of these components involves the sequential implementation of a number of steps, which at first glance are quite simple, however, as practice shows, in the vast majority of cases, requiring the participation of a professional electrician. If the owner of the premises intends to independently solve the problem of supplying electricity to a house or apartment, it is necessary, at a minimum, to carefully study the hardware, that is, prepare theoretically, before assembling the electrical panel with your own hands.

The electrical panel is the heart of the home electrical system

We will not be mistaken if we say that the main function of an electrical panel installed at home, in an office, a cafe or any other room is to distribute electricity to consumers and ensure safety when using electrical appliances. Every owner of a residential or business premises at some point is forced to deal with the problem of how to assemble an electrical panel. Long-term uninterrupted operation of the huge number of household appliances that fill any home or office today largely depends on how correctly the electrical panel is assembled.

The shield itself is a plastic or metal box in which components (or modules) are placed, each of which performs a specific function. There are so-called internal electrical panels, that is, recessed into the wall, and external ones - placed on the wall.

In a private home, the electrical panel is often installed outdoors; in this case, a waterproof design of the device will be required (protection level IP65). Considering the fact that it is unlikely that the electrical panel will be changed annually or even once every five years (as a rule, the device lasts much longer), it would be advisable when choosing a device to give preference to a more expensive, but high-quality panel of a well-known brand with a supply of seats.

Where to start?

Every experienced electrician will confirm that it is much easier to begin work on installing an electrical panel and wiring, having before your eyes a floor plan indicating the intended placement of household appliances, lighting fixtures, as well as sockets and junction boxes. Having decided on the number and power of consumers, it is necessary to draw up a diagram of the electrical panel itself. A single line diagram might look like this:

In this diagram, all consumers are divided into 20 groups, for each of which the following is indicated:

• wire grade and core cross-section, mm²;
• power;
• current consumption;
• type of circuit breaker indicating the rated current.

For the uninitiated, such a diagram looks quite complicated, so you can use a simplified schematic representation of the location of the electrical panel components.

For greater clarity, the electrical panel diagram can be depicted as follows:

Or even like this:

• 1 - introductory AB;
• 2 - counter;
• 3 - zero bus;
• 4 - grounding bus;
• 5–10 - AV consumers.

Having such a diagram in hand, it is much easier to figure out how to properly assemble an electrical panel.

How to properly form consumer groups

When distributing electricity consumers into groups, you should adhere to certain rules:

• powerful consumers (2 kW or more), which usually include a hob, oven, water heater, washing machine, etc., should be powered by a separate switch. The cable must go from the panel to the consumer, bypassing the distribution boxes;
• two-kilowatt consumers are connected with a copper cable with a cross-section of 2.5 mm² and a 16 A circuit breaker. If you are guided by the tabular data, then for a 2 kW device a 1.5 mm² wire, as well as a 10 A circuit breaker, is sufficient, but to create some reserve, as a rule, the components of the following are installed level;
• in some cases (if the consumer power exceeds 2 kW), a 4 mm² wire with AB 25A or a 6 mm² wire with AB 32 A may be required - such components are sometimes used when connecting a hob, oven or instantaneous water heater;
• for each room you should make a separate socket line, which will branch out from the distribution box into the required number of sockets;
• the same applies to the lighting line - each of them is connected, as a rule, by a 10 A automatic machine and a 1.5 mm² wire.

It is this approach to the distribution of consumer groups that can ensure uninterrupted and safe operation of home and office electrical appliances. It is extremely undesirable to use components and materials of dubious origin, even if they are an order of magnitude cheaper than “branded” ones: with a high degree of probability, such parts will have to be replaced in the near future.

The socket line is usually equipped with a 16 A circuit breaker.

Electrical Panel Components

The assembly of an electrical panel requires the presence of mandatory components, which include circuit breakers, residual current devices (RCDs), electricity meters, buses, as well as additional and auxiliary components that add convenience to the operation of the panel: voltage control relays, light indicators, digital voltmeters, contactors and etc.

Among the most respected by specialists are the manufacturers of components used in the installation of electrical panels - ABB, Legrand, Shcneider Electric. The prices for devices of these brands are approximately the same. Chinese devices are much cheaper, but practicing electricians claim that once you use Chinese equipment to complete an order, you can lose your reputation for a long time, so they use such components only at the request of a customer who cannot afford branded components.

Everything is ready for installation

So, the diagram has been drawn up and understood, the components have been prepared - nothing prevents you from starting assembling the electrical panel. First of all, the location of the shield is selected, on which the device is attached, as a rule, with self-tapping screws or clamps. The electrical panel housing is usually located near the entrance to the house or apartment - in the vestibule or hallway. If the owner has expressed a desire to hide the panel in the wall, and the wall turns out to be concrete, you can use a false wall or a plasterboard ledge: the area of ​​the room may be slightly reduced.

When choosing a place on the wall to install an electrical panel, you should take into account that the distance from the device to the nearest doorway should be at least 15 cm, the distance to the floor - 1.5–1.7 m. If necessary, the owner of the home or a called electrician should be able to easily reach the panel : It is strictly prohibited to place the device inside cabinets or other furniture. The device should be located away from gas pipes and flammable materials.

To prevent the electrical panel from being too large or small, you can first determine its size by knowing the dimensions of the components that will be located in it. For example, the width of a standard single-pole circuit breaker is 17.5 mm, a two-pole circuit breaker is 35 mm, and a three-pole circuit breaker is 52.5 mm. The remaining components have the following dimensions:

The modules are located on the so-called DIN rail - a special metal plate 35 mm wide. The socket is not one of the required elements, but may be useful during repair work. If, when summing up the number of components, it turns out that a panel with 20 modules is needed, then it would be reasonable to install an electrical panel with 24 or even 32 modules - who can know how many household electrical appliances will be added to the house in a year, two or five?

We run cables into the electrical panel

The presence of a special cable entry with a removable cover can eliminate problems with wiring cables into the panel. On high-quality boards, such an input is usually provided; low-quality ones are better not to be considered at all. If the electrical panel is installed outside, there are usually no problems with cabling. If the shield is hidden in a niche, there may be nuances: getting to the inlet hole in this case can be quite difficult, so the electrician needs to be patient and persevering.

The design of the cable entry of the electrical panel, as a rule, provides for perforated holes, which are brought to the required size by simply removing excess jumpers. The cables are fed into the shield through a corrugated pipe, the standard size of which is 16 or 20 mm; accordingly, the holes should be made of this size.

Often an electrician is hampered by the mobility of the wires inside the corrugated tube. To fix the wires and make them stationary, some use alabaster, which is applied to the input hole from the side of the gate. Let us immediately make a reservation that this method of fixation is not convenient and aesthetically pleasing. It is much more efficient to secure the wires using special removable plugs or gland plates.

To avoid future confusion with wires, you should immediately label them. The input cable is supplied, as a rule, in the upper left corner - where the input machine is usually installed.

We cut the cables and mount the modules

Every electrician will confirm that working with a tool specifically designed for a particular operation is easier and more enjoyable. You can cut the cables inside the shield with a regular construction knife, but if you do it with a special knife with a heel, everything turns out faster and better.

After cutting the cables, you should re-label the wires, since there will be quite a lot of them and if you get tangled in them, it will take a lot of time to restore order. When feeding cables into the shield, you should leave a length that is equal to twice the height of the shield, that is, run the cable through the entire shield, and then measure the same amount. This measure is not wasteful: the wires inside the shield do not go in a straight line, but along an intricate curved line, and it is better to have a little extra wire left than not enough.

There are no strict rules for the arrangement of modules in the electrical panel; however, electricians usually use one of two installation schemes - linear or group. In the first case, all elements are arranged one after another in the order shown on the single-line diagram: automatic input device, RCD, automatic circuit breakers, consumer circuit breakers. Among the advantages of this arrangement option is ease of implementation, the disadvantage is that it is difficult to find the “culprit” of the emergency situation.

If a group layout of modules is implemented in the panel, the components alternate among consumer groups: AV input, RCD, group of switches linked to this RCD. Next, the next RCD and the corresponding group of circuit breakers are installed. Such a circuit is somewhat more difficult to assemble, but the problem line is immediately visible from the triggered RCD.

Assembly Rules

There are certain rules that should be followed when assembling an electrical panel:

• all wires inside the panel must be of the same cross-section as the input wire;
• any module must have an entrance at the top, an exit at the bottom;
• if installation is carried out using PV3 stranded wire, it is necessary to use NShVI lugs.

The sequence of steps for an electrician performing the assembly may look like this:

The final stage

The shield is installed in its place after all dirty repair work is completed. The panel body is mounted in a niche, the DIN rails with the assembled modular equipment are fastened with self-tapping screws. The working (N) and protective (PE) zero buses are fixed. Phase and neutral wires are arranged in separate bundles and laid on opposite sides of the shield. The force with which the connections are clamped is 0.8 Nm.

Before starting commissioning work, you should make sure that all sockets, junction boxes, and switches are assembled. All consumer groups should be signed on the external panel of the electrical panel. After about a month of work, all connections of the shield should be tightened.

Video on the topic

We install the electrical panel ourselves

The importance of the electrical panel in an apartment in the home's power supply system is extremely high. The wiring will not be able to function efficiently and fully without the correct distribution of electrical energy consumers, and fire and electrical safety will be reduced to a minimum in the absence of the necessary protection elements. Of course, it would be better if specialists deal with the wiring and installation of equipment, but with some study of this issue (this article will help you with this), you can independently install the electrical panel yourself without much effort and expense, by assembling a simple electrical circuit. The main thing is to understand what power supply schemes there are, what equipment you need to choose, how to calculate electrical loads, how to distribute them correctly and evenly.

General questions about electrical panels

There are currently two types of electrical panels. The first is old and disappearing into oblivion - a panel with fuses (or plugs), which were disposable and had to be unscrewed for replacement, and modern devices equipped with package switch systems (automatic machines). Of course, it is better to use modern technologies, since they are superior to outdated systems in terms of reliability, safety and durability, and they take up less space, but they cannot be repaired. In stores you can buy panels either with built-in circuit breakers or empty “boxes” and install the necessary equipment yourself.

An electrical panel in an apartment, the power supply circuit of which can be varied, and the number of consumers and their power can increase over time, must be selected with additional places for circuit breakers.

The input circuit breaker, usually capable of simultaneously turning off both “phase” and “zero”, should be selected based on the total load of the apartment. The magnitude of its current and protective characteristics is higher than that of auxiliary circuit breakers. As a rule, for two- and three-room apartments, a machine with 32–40 amperes (about 7 kW) is suitable; if the load is less, you can take a machine with 25 or 16 amperes.

As for the auxiliary circuit breakers installed on the “phase”, they are necessary to protect a separate room or device. Experts advise installing such a machine on every consumer whose power exceeds 1.5 kW (heating tanks, washing machines, and so on). The table of approximate loads of electrical appliances is located below.

Table 1 - approximate power of household devices.

RCD (residual current device) is an extremely useful device if it is necessary to increase the level of electrical protection significantly. They react to the slightest leakage of currents and voltages, instantly de-energizing the circuit. If there are bathrooms and children's rooms in the house equipped with electrical appliances, .

Installation and installation of the switchboard

The residential electrical panel ABB or Legrand comes in two types:

1. Closed (built into the wall).
2. Open (the shield is attached directly to a vertical surface).

The choice of installation type mainly depends on the type of electrical wiring - if the wiring is open type, installation of an overhead panel would be ideal - such a panel does not require special site preparation, fastening to the wall is carried out using ordinary dowel-nails or self-tapping screws (it all depends on the wall material) .

If the wiring is of a hidden type (i.e. built into the wall), then the best option would be to install a built-in panel. Everything is more complicated here, since you have to hammer into the walls. The main thing is not to forget to make sure that the thickness of the wall allows you to install the shield. After creating a niche, it is coated with a fixing solution of plaster or alabaster, and a “box” is built into such a bed. It is more convenient to use a plastic shield. The upper part should contain input machines, under which the counter is located. It is secured with screws. Installation of the meter is carried out after completion of work related to the electrical wiring. This is due to the filling.

Installation of the electrical panel should be carried out on a hard surface - in a place where it is easy to reach and maintain.

According to the regulations, the location of the shield is installed away from water and gas pipelines. It should be located on a flat wall surface with an inclination angle of no more than 1.5 degrees at a height of about 1.5 meters from the floor. If it is not possible to place the meter far from places of potential damage, then it can be placed in a cabinet equipped with an inspection window. Fastening of wires is allowed using bandage knitting.

For wiring in the attic, it is necessary to leave a short length of wire, because twisting the wire into a coil is not allowed. If you are installing electrical wiring in the attic, the cable is placed in a metal pipe with grounding.

As for the materials from which the shields are made, it can be either metal or heat-resistant plastic. The second option is more convenient to install and operate, safer, and its appearance is attractive.

So, we’ve sorted out the installation of the box itself, now let’s figure out how the electrical panel circuit is arranged.

In principle, all electrical circuits of boards are of the same type, but there are main factors by which they are assembled, these include:

• number of electrical energy consumers;
• total power consumption of electrical energy;
• power of each consumer;
• electrical panel installation location;
• number of phases;
• presence of a grounding conductor;
• presence of an electrical energy metering unit.

The voltage is supplied to the input circuit breaker (preferably if it is two-pole) and goes to a single-phase electricity metering unit, from where it goes to the RCD. Next, the phase is split and the loads are directly distributed using circuit breakers and additional RCDs. For example, there will be separate machines for lighting, sockets and powerful consumers.

The design of the electrical panel for a three-phase power supply system is similar, only the input circuit breaker, RCD and electric meter will be three-phase, and the entire system will be larger both in terms of dimensions and in the number of circuit breakers and connecting conductors.

We begin internal installation

Now let's figure out how to properly assemble the electrical panel. First of all, a din rail is installed in the shield using self-tapping screws. It consists of a metal plate to which all switching devices will subsequently be attached. To create the required length, it can be easily cut with a hacksaw.

In addition to the DIN rails, terminal blocks (or distribution busbars) are attached to the panel body. Their role is to connect the neutral conductors. If the apartment or house is an old model and the entire system is made of only a phase (3 phases) and a working zero (done with a blue wire), one terminal block is enough. If the system is made according to the rules and there is an additional yellow-green conductor (protective zero or grounding), then it is necessary to install another bus. At the moment, there are tires on sale, the design of which allows them to be mounted on a DIN rail, just like automatic machines.

After installing the DIN rails, we proceed to attaching the circuit breakers. Modern design allows you to do this very quickly; just pull out the latch device on the top side of the machine with a flat screwdriver, place the machine on the DIN rail and remove the screwdriver. Removal is carried out in the same way.

Assembly instructions

The connection can be made in three ways:

1. Using stranded copper wires with sleeve lugs of the NShVI type.
2. Make U-shaped jumpers with your own hands from pieces of copper wire.
3. Using special insulated tires called combs. This bus is easy to install and does not take up much space, plus it reduces the number of connecting wires several times.

Following actions:

What else do you need to know?

Installing an electrical panel and assembling it is not only about knowing how to assemble the circuits correctly. You also need to know some nuances so that you don’t later regret the time and effort spent.

It must be recalled that assembly and installation of the electrical panel of Legrand, ABB or equipment from another company must be carried out strictly on a disconnected power line, after checking that there is no voltage.

To connect the assembled panel to the existing system, it is necessary to involve employees of relevant organizations. For apartment buildings, these are representatives of the homeowners association or housing office.

As a result, after completing the entire assembly and connection process, you need to close or screw the cover and check your work by applying voltage to the live parts of your shield.

It is difficult to imagine modern life without the use of various electrical appliances. But their abundance creates connection problems and places a high load on the electrical network, which sharply reduces fire safety. Separate control of electrical appliances can help reduce the load, for which an electrical panel is assembled and installed in the apartment. You can configure it yourself. But in order for electrical appliances to be turned on without danger, it is necessary to correctly draw up a diagram of the panel, understand its structure, and take into account all installation requirements.

The selection of an electrical panel must be taken very seriously. After all, first of all, the safety of the home depends on this, and then the comfortable use of the devices.

The following requirements are imposed on the electrical panel and its installation in accordance with GOSTs:

• The filling of the shield is carried out strictly according to the technical documentation. It will indicate the number of protective devices that can be installed, their rated current;
• the shield must be marked with a conventional electrical safety sign, which indicates the rated voltage;
• the material used to make the shield must be non-flammable and non-conductive. It can be plastic or metal coated with special paint;
• on the wires there must be a designation of the group of connected devices;
• the housing and door of the panel must be grounded. Ears for sealing should also be provided.

In addition to selecting the shield, it is also necessary to draw up an electrical diagram of the shield. Competently drafting it will make it easier to assemble the panel and move it, and there will be no problems when the electrician accepts the work.

Drawing up an electrical diagram

This step is required. This is due to the following factors:

• when upgrading the electrical network or repairing it, it will be possible to quickly determine which section each element is responsible for. This is also true if you plan to transfer the shield;
• In order for an electrician to accept the work carried out, a diagram is required;
• With the diagram, assembling the shield is much easier.

A diagram is drawn up in several stages:

1. The power supply system of the house is determined.
2. Electricity consumption points are divided into several groups.
3. Based on this data, a scheme is formed.

The method of connecting and grounding the panel depends on the type of power supply.

You can find out the type of power supply and grounding system at home by looking at the panel, if it is being moved, or by contacting the relevant authorities. In modern houses, the TN-S or TN-C-S system is more often used. A three-core copper wire is laid throughout the apartment, and a cable having three phases, neutral and PE ground is connected to the distribution board on the floor.

In older buildings, the TN-C system can be used, where a two-core aluminum and copper cable is laid throughout the apartment, and a cable with three phases and one PEN conductor, in which neutral and ground are combined, is connected to the distribution panel.

The breakdown of consumption points can significantly simplify installation work and save materials. Experts recommend dividing them into the following groups:

Different machines are used for different consumers:

• 16A RCD for switches;
• RCD for 16-20A for sockets;
• 25A RCD for household appliances;
• RCD 32-63A for electric stove.

You can draw up a diagram yourself if you have certain skills and knowledge of notation. But it is better to have a qualified electrician do this. He will be able to take into account all the nuances.

Principles for selecting an electrical panel

The drawn up diagram allows you to estimate how many automatic machines, RCDs, etc. will be in the system. Modern shields have a modular design. To assemble an electrical panel in an apartment, elements that are multiples of 18 mm in width are used, that is, each module has a size of 18 mm. An RCD or DIF-automatic device occupies two modules in width, and an automatic circuit breaker occupies one module.

Principles for choosing an electrical panel:

• The size must be taken with a reserve. This will allow you to later move the shield to another location or upgrade the circuit without problems;
• The selection of the shield must be carried out taking into account the type of electrical wiring. There are models for external (overhead) or hidden wiring (built-in);
• It is advisable to give preference to plastic shields that definitely do not conduct current.

Installation of an electrical panel in an apartment

If you are assembling the shield or moving it, then first of all you need to decide on the installation location. It is recommended to install it as close as possible to the place where the power supply enters the apartment.

It is important to ensure that unhindered access is provided. Depending on the dimensions of the shield, the height of its installation is selected (1.4-1.7 m from the floor). You can navigate by the top row of machines, which should be located at eye level for ease of installation and further maintenance. Installation of the shield is carried out in two ways:

• open – for invoice;
• hidden – for built-in.

Let's look at each of them in more detail.

Installation of a mounted electrical panel

If the electrical wiring was laid in an open way, then it is advisable to use a hinged panel. It must be disassembled before installation.

There should be four mounting holes on the back wall. If there are none, you need to drill them yourself. Having attached the shield to the wall at the desired height, you need to make markings for the first dowel. Then a hole is drilled for it, and the shield is screwed to the wall. Using a building level, the required position is set and markings are made for the remaining fasteners. Then the shield is finally screwed to the wall.

Fastenings are selected taking into account the base material:

• when attaching to a metal or wooden rail, you need appropriate screws;
• for concrete or solid brick, 6x40 mm dowels are sufficient;
• for sand-lime brick - dowels 8x100 mm;
• for hollow bricks - anchors with a length of at least 80 mm.

You can insert the wires through special holes in the shield or cut out one large one using a grinder.

Installation of a built-in panel

When moving or installing a built-in electrical panel in an apartment, be prepared for the generation of a large amount of debris and dust. The labor intensity of such work is much higher, especially when arranging a niche in a concrete wall. Be careful not to damage the communications running in the wall.

If the walls are made of panels or plasterboard, then you need to take care of arranging the niche at the cladding stage. You will need to knock out a niche in a concrete or brick wall. In both cases, allowances of 2-3 cm are taken, including in depth.

The markings are made based on the dimensions of the shield. The formation of a niche is carried out using a grinder with a large diameter circle. With its help, a groove is cut around the perimeter. Then, using a hammer drill, a large number of holes are drilled around the perimeter to the required depth. After this, you can proceed to knocking out a niche, replacing the drill with a peak.

The shield box is fixed into the formed niche. The holes for fastenings are first marked for it, and the cables are installed. If the shield is small, you can fix it in a niche using alabaster.

Electrical panel assembly process

After installing the housing and inserting the cables into it, the electrical panel can be assembled and connected. To do this, you need to perform the following series of operations:

1. First of all, 35 mm DIN rails are installed. They will install automatic machines, an electric meter, and busbars for connecting grounding conductors and neutral wires separately. They are secured to the rail using a latch. It is designed in such a way that the elements can be moved freely.
2. Then the required number of elements is installed in accordance with the diagram and two buses. The power cable is connected to the input circuit breaker, which is placed first on the top left. It is advisable to enter it from above for convenience.
3. We connect the input machine. It is recommended to connect the phases from below to make it more convenient to install jumpers from above.
4. After this, the machines are connected by jumpers and the assembly of the circuit begins in accordance with the diagram. Zero is taken from the zero bus for each machine separately. The yellow-green wire of the machine is connected to the ground bus. The housing and door of the metal housing are connected there using a copper wire.