Application

Laboratory spirit lamp

Used in tourism for cooking; in chemical and school laboratories for heating and melting materials, for heating small laboratory vessels (test tubes, flasks for chemical work, etc.) and other similar thermal processes; in medical institutions for sterilization in an open flame of medical instruments; as well as wherever the use of an open flame of low thermal power is required.

Design

Trangia travel set including crockery and spirit lamp on the left.

The alcohol container is the main bearing part of the laboratory spirit lamp, and its most important and main part is the wick, which transfers liquid fuel (alcohol) from the container to the end of the wick, where this fuel burns and is used for heating. The container for alcohol is made in the form of a reservoir, into which the lower end of the wick is lowered. The tank has a neck, which is equipped with a lid. The cover is necessary to separate the alcohol combustion zone from the internal volume of the tank where the liquid fuel is located. The tank lid can be placed both inside the neck and outside it, covering the latter with outer side. A guide tube is usually installed in the opening of the cap through which the wick passes. The wick must be placed in the tube in such a way that, on the one hand, it can move smoothly and easily in the tube, and on the other hand, the contact of the tube with the wick must be tight enough so that the wick does not fall out of the tube. The cover of the spirit lamp may have a device for adjusting the protruding length of the wick, the recommended value of which is no more than 15 mm.

Typically, spirit lamp fuel is poured through the top opening of the tank after the cap has been removed. However, there are spirit lamps, the reservoir of which has a side filler neck with a ground-in stopper. The amount of fuel to be poured is determined by the internal volume of the tank. Alcohol from the reservoir rises up the wick due to capillary pressure and evaporates when it reaches the upper end of the protruding part of the wick. Alcohol vapors are ignited and the spirit lamp burns with a flame temperature not exceeding 900 ° Celsius. Most spirit lamps have a metal or glass cap, which is used both to extinguish the flame of the spirit lamp and to prevent the fuel from evaporating.

According to the structural elements, laboratory alcohol stoves differ from each other in the following parameters:

• tank material (metal or glass);
• tank shape (round or faceted);
• internal volume of the tank;
• wick material and thickness;
• the presence or absence of a device for regulating the protruding part of the wick;

The material of the tank should be selected based on the operating conditions of the spirit stove. If the spirit lamp is operated in conditions where it is possible to accidentally drop the spirit lamp on a stone or metal floor, then from the point of view of safety, it is preferable to use a spirit lamp with a metal reservoir. Alcohol lamps with a glass case are much cheaper than metal ones. In addition, during the operation of the spirit stove, you can always observe the level of alcohol in the tank. However, glass is a brittle material with little resistance to impact, and therefore there is always the possibility of the spirit lamp's tank breaking if dropped on a hard floor, which can cause a spill of burning alcohol. Therefore, in rooms with increased requirements for fire safety the use of glass spirit lamps, especially those made of thin laboratory glass, is not recommended.

The round shape of the tank is the most widely used. Faceted spirit lamps are more expensive than round ones and they should be used only when performing a number of specific jobs, for example, those associated with heating low-melting materials such as waxes, in order to prevent drops of heated material from falling on the wick of the spirit lamp.

The internal volume of the spirit lamp reservoir must be chosen such that during its operation, at least, it would not be necessary to refill the spirit lamp during one hour of its continuous operation.

Wick material and thickness important elements for the operation of the alcohol stove. Cotton wicks and asbestos cord are used. Cotton wicks are the most widely used, as they give a more stable and even flame compared to asbestos wicks. As for the thickness of the wicks, it must be assumed that the thicker the wick, the more fuel it supplies to the combustion zone. Thicker wicks give a more voluminous flame with a greater height of the latter. As a result, the heat output of alcohol lamps with a thicker wick is slightly higher, but the consumption of alcohol is also higher. For most laboratory work performed with alcohol lamps, a wick thickness of at least 4.8 mm and not more than 6.4 mm is sufficient. Thicker wicks are needed for some professional jobs that require a high and voluminous flame. It is advisable to have spirit lamps with different wick thicknesses in the set and use them depending on technological requirements for the work being performed.

The device for adjusting the size of the protruding part of the wick provides great convenience when working with spirit lamps, since it is not necessary to extinguish the flame of the spirit lamp each time in order to adjust the parameters of the flame (height and volume) by changing the size of the protruding part of the wick. Spirit lamps with wick adjustment devices are more expensive than spirit lamps without these devices. However, somewhat more high price is more than covered by amenities for professional work that this device provides.

Fuel

All spirit stoves predominantly use ethyl alcohol as fuel. There are three types of ethyl alcohol on sale: rectified ethyl alcohol from food raw materials, technical hydrolysis alcohol from wood raw materials and synthetic alcohol obtained by chemical means. Technical alcohol and synthetic alcohol are sometimes dyed blue-violet with the addition of certain substances with a pungent odor. Such alcohol is called denatured alcohol. All of these types of alcohols can be used as liquid fuel for spirit lamps.

Other types of fuel, such as isopropyl or methyl alcohol, are not recommended for laboratory spirit lamps, since these alcohols have MPC (maximum permissible concentration in air) two or more orders of magnitude lower than that of ethyl alcohol and therefore dangerous to health.

Safety

When working with laboratory alcohol lamps, safety precautions are as follows. It is necessary to use the spirit lamp only for the purpose indicated in its technical passport. It is forbidden to refuel the spirit lamp near devices with an open flame. Do not fill the spirit lamp with fuel more than half the volume of the tank. Do not move or carry a spirit lamp with a burning wick. It is strictly forbidden to light the wick of a spirit lamp with another spirit lamp. Fill the spirit lamp only with ethyl alcohol. Extinguish the flame of the spirit lamp only with a cap. Do not keep on the desktop where the spirit lamp is used, flammable substances and materials that can ignite from short-term exposure to an ignition source with low thermal energy (flame of a match, alcohol lamp). The room in which the work with an alcohol lamp (alcohol lamps) is performed must be equipped with primary fire extinguishing means, for example, a powder fire extinguisher.

Advantages

• Light weight - no more than 220 g.
• Ease of use - you only need to add fuel, which is independently supplied to the combustion area.
• Reliability - all structural elements are practically trouble-free in operation.
• Quiet operation.
• No strong odors - the smell of liquid fuel before it is ignited is negligible compared to the smell of gaseous fuel in similar cases.
• Not required Maintenance- there is no need to carry out regulatory, as well as repair work for the adjustment and cleaning of structural elements.
• Safety in work - the fuel used in small quantities is not explosive, spilled burning alcohol can be easily extinguished using standard fire extinguishing agents (powder fire extinguishers).
• Simplicity of storage of fuel - storage of fuel in an ordinary plastic bottle or a plastic canister is allowed.
• Low price - the cost of alcohol lamps is much lower than laboratory ones gas burners or other types of burners using liquid fuel (kerosene, gasoline).
• Environmentally friendly fuel - does not pollute environment(safe when released into water and soil and does not form toxic substances when burned).

Flaws

• Low thermal power - the calorific value of ethyl alcohol is lower than that of other types of both liquid fuels (kerosene, gasoline) and gaseous fuels (methane, propane).
• Unreliable operation at low temperatures - poor evaporation of fuel from the protruding upper part of the wick at sub-zero temperatures.
• Malaya mechanical strength- details of alcohol lamps have low strength and can be deformed or destroyed even with small mechanical impacts.

see also

Links

For now, we will limit ourselves to a spirit lamp (in the photo above it is located in the foreground). They say you can buy fondue pots or ready-made tourist spirit lamps from Tatonka, but why spend money when you can do everything yourself? Especially since homemade version, judging by the reviews on specialized forums like the Hansa, it works better and, in general, does the Swede in many ways.

For manufacturing you will need:
Aluminum can 0.33l - 2 pcs.
Cotton wool - medium-sized tufts.
Emery 200 grit or finer.
Cutter or marker for marking.
Very clever book of sufficient thickness.
Button or thin awl.
Scissors.

Let's get started.
First you need to get rid of the paint on the banks. This step is not at all mandatory because it will eventually burn out anyway, and more affects appearance finished product. For implementation, it is necessary to rub a FULL jar with emery on the walls in the area of ​​​​the bottom. The paint will peel off, revealing brushed aluminum. Aesthetes can try to wash off the paint with a solvent (646 easily washed off the date of bottling from the bottom) - you should get a shiny mirror surface.

Now it's time to pour the contents of the jar into the toilet and start marking. The method of making a mark for cutting is not new and was peeped from smart-ass Americans (it would seem that people with money could go and buy ready-made ones - but no, they do it themselves), but slightly changed:

1. We measure the desired height. In the peeped pendostan recipe - 1 (one) canonical inch. We fix the blade or marker on a suitable stand, in this case, in a book.

2. We apply the cut line by rotating the jar pressed against the blade. Here there was a departure from the canon, because in the Pendostan version the blade should cut off the bottom, but in ours it only scratches. For this reason, you can not drive with the blade and mark with a marker.

3. Cut off the bottom along the marking line. The walls have an uneven thickness, but even in the thickest place they are easily cut with ordinary clerical scissors. We process the edges of the received part with emery to avoid cuts.

During the manufacturing process, the two bottoms obtained in this way will need to be inserted one into the other. It is clear and understandable that, having the same diameter, they will in every possible way prevent this and can be wrinkled, therefore, immediately after the manufacture of the first bottom, it should be flared with an untouched second can. A full jar must be pushed with force into the cut off bottom, avoiding, however, rupture or deformation of its walls.

We take out the awl from the ass and pierce the narrow (non-flared) bottom in the center, and then in four places nearby. The configuration and number of holes - to taste.

Putting cotton...

And we insert the bottom one into the other as deep as possible. The walls of the outer bottom will rise slightly above the inner one - for the tightness of the structure and in order not to cut yourself, fill them up with a wooden block or knife.

From the heart, poke the nozzles on the bottom cone. I had enough for sixteen, i.e. somewhere in every centimeter.

Alcohol is ready!

However, your adventures are just beginning, because buying alcohol (yes, the spirit lamp works on alcohol) in this country is not at all a trivial task. In short, in Russia it can be bought either by prescription at a pharmacy or at a local distillery. Therefore, we will have to collective farm and fulfill the plan of our saint Dmitry Anatolyevich here and switch to alternative energy sources.

Having scoured the Internet, it was found that there is still a point in driving to the pharmacy - there you can get hold of an alcohol tincture of something. Laminaria, for example, or licorice root, or leuzea, or pepper. The better - you can check with local alcoholics.

Option number two is windshield washer fluid from a car dealership. The notorious "Maximka" and others like her of blue color. But personally, the toad strangles me to give two and a half hundred, albeit for five liters.

Third - not alcohol liquids at all. In principle, you can pour gasoline into an alcohol lamp of this type, but it’s still not worth the risk - a couple of it, but in a closed space, but under pressure ... Kerosene - no problem, but the stench will be unbearable. I heard about the experience of using DT - it seems to be successful. Any isopropyl and other methyl alcohols can be used, but here you need to remember that these are all strong poisons and cooking on such an alcohol lamp is dangerous. Moreover, in the same SHAK, fuel is stored in a bottle in a bowler hat, which can turn into global pizdets in the event of a spill.

The author, in the person of me, tried what was at hand, namely 646 solvent and the advised acetone. 646 can be immediately discarded - it stinks and smokes very strongly. Acetone burns odorless, but with a slight soot (they promised that it would not smoke at all) and, in principle, is suitable for use in an acetone spirit lamp, but you will have to look for a suitable bottle because acetone does not seem to be friendly with plastics.

For dessert - self-immolation of acetone in a spirit lamp:

Recipe: pour twenty cubes into the spirit stove through the central holes and two or three cubes AROUND the spirit stove or onto it. We set fire to the acetone outside and after a couple of seconds the acetone in the spirit lamp boils, intensive vaporization begins and the spirit lamp enters the operating mode. When the acetone burns out from the outside, the spirit stove will heat itself and the boiling process will not be interrupted. We put a pot on top and cook. All.

The cost of fake-crafts is extremely low (in the worst case, fifty dollars, on average, it’s generally free), the complexity of operations is somewhere on the level preschool(and then cardboard is harder to cut with scissors than a jar), it takes about fifteen minutes. In general, you can make such a spirit lamp just out of interest, without pursuing any utilitarian goals. At the same time, the product is also lighter, smaller and more convenient than factory samples, and this is a big plus.

Instructions for using an alcohol burner.
1. Before proceeding with refueling and ignition, you need to take care of the following precautions:
- The burner is installed on a flat horizontal surface and must have a reliable stable position, excluding tipping or falling;
- Choose a safe place to install the burner. Taking into account the subsequent heating of the body of the burner itself, it is installed only on a surface capable of withstanding such a thermal effect.
- In the field, the burner is installed in a prepared place, cleared of dry grass leaves and located at a sufficient distance from other flammable objects.
2. Pour the required amount of fuel into the main burner tank.
- Never fill the burner container more than 2/3.
- DO NOT POUR FUEL INTO A HOT OR BURNING BURNER AS THIS MAY CAUSE AN EXPLOSION.
3. Ignite the fuel with a match.
4. Wait for the burner to warm up and automatically enter the main operating mode. The exit to the main operating mode is indicated by the extinction of the flame in the central part of the burner and its flashing through the holes of the nozzle corolla. Further, even combustion in the form of a flower is established, which is the normal mode of operation of the burner.
5. When using the burner in the field, to increase the stability of the flame, as well as the efficiency of using the heat generated during combustion, it is necessary to use a windshield. You can increase the efficiency of the burner by installing it on a piece sheet metal, which will play the role of a heat reflector (reflector).
6. Extinguish the burner flame urgently by cutting off the oxygen supply to the flame by tightly covering the burner for a short time. For example, an inverted cup.
7. Before removing from the site and transporting in the stowed position, let the burner flame burn out on its own until the fuel burns out completely.
8. To avoid thermal burns, first check if the burner has cooled down. Do not screw on the cap until the burner is cool - the rubber seal may melt (applies to factory-made burners that have screw caps).

AT last years with the development of the popularity of the subject of tourism and survival, a lot of all sorts of different designs homemade alcoholic beverages. In this article, of course, I will not describe them all and analyze how they differ. Instead, I will tell you in detail how to make a spirit lamp with your own hands from an aerosol can. It is one of the most effective and simple designs in my opinion.

Spirit lamp device

First, let's take a look at the device of the alcohol lamp. This design has 3 parts: glass wool body, lid and filler. Well, it’s clear with the case, this is the container into which we pour alcohol.

Lid made from the top of an aerosol can, it, let's say, does not allow alcohol vapors to burn from above, they exit through the side holes and burn in the form of a burner, like on a gas stove.

glass wool needed so that the alcohol does not overheat, does not boil and evaporates more evenly. Without glass wool, the alcohol inside the spirit stove, when it is full, boils, begins to boil and splashes out through the side holes with a strong fire.

For the stability of the spirit lamp and the initial heating, a metal stand is needed, for example, a regular can lid.

How an alcohol stove works

Pour alcohol through the hole in the lid almost to the side holes. Because of the glass wool, the level of alcohol is not visible, but it is quite possible to adapt to pour “by eye” or mark the bottle of alcohol in portions. In my spirit lamp, this is about 20 ml.

We put an alcohol lamp on the metal lid, and put a mug of water on it.

Then pour a little alcohol on the lid-stand around the spirit lamp and set fire to it.

What happens when this happens:

Alcohol burns around the spirit stove, thereby heating it and the alcohol inside. It begins to evaporate more actively and exits through the side holes, igniting from the fire outside. At first, the flame will be quite large. Then the alcohol on the cover-stand burns out. By this time, the spirit stove has already warmed up enough itself and the alcohol inside it actively evaporates and burns in the form of a burner. As soon as the alcohol from the lid has burned out, the flame of the spirit lamp becomes a little smaller and burns exactly along the bottom of the mug, almost without going beyond it. At the same time, the flame continues to heat the upper edge of the spirit lamp above the holes, and the alcohol inside it is constantly heated from the walls of the case. A stable balance is established between the heating of alcohol, its combustion and evaporation. After a while, the water in the mug boils.

Important point - the mug should stand exactly on the spirit lamp, in direct contact with its body. Since the mug is cold and gradually heats up, it takes some of the heat from the body of the spirit lamp and does not allow it to overheat. This is very noticeable, if you raise the mug above the spirit lamp, the flame immediately becomes much more intense and the alcohol burns out much faster. When the mug is on the spirit lamp, the flame burns evenly most of the time.

What is this alcohol for?

The main purpose of this small spirit stove is to boil one cup of water for coffee or tea. You can brew coffee in a Turk or heat canned food.

Since the spirit stove is quite small, its power is only enough to boil water up to 0.5-0.6 liters. I tried to boil 1 liter of water on this spirit lamp at room temperature. After some time, the water, of course, would boil, but a full filling of the spirit stove is not enough for this. You can, of course, add more alcohol when everything burns out, but for such tasks it is better to use a large spirit lamp with a large burner size, as on a gas stove.

How to make a spirit lamp from an aerosol can

First you need to find a suitable empty aluminum can in size and completely bleed pressure from it through the top valve. I have a 35mm tank.

We mark 43-45 mm from below and carefully, trying not to wrinkle the body, cut off the bottom cup. This can be done with the blade of a clerical knife, holding it between the pages of a thick book at a height of 45 mm from the table surface. We press down the book with the blade, press the can against it and turn it several times until we cut through.

The upper part, where the valve is located, is cut off in the same way. For different spray cans, this part is rounded off in different ways, so choose its height yourself. It is necessary to mark 3-5 mm from the place where the rounding goes into a flat body. The main thing is that later this part does not block the side holes on the body of the spirit lamp.

These two parts must be carefully cleaned with sandpaper inside and out. Otherwise, the heated paint and varnish will then stink for a long time and strongly. Don't forget to remove the can valve. It is plastic and can be easily pulled out with pliers from the inside.

We retreat about 1 cm from the upper edge of the body of the spirit lamp and mark the places of the holes with a step of 5 mm. In thin aluminum, holes can simply be carefully pierced with an awl, but to make them all the same, it is better to drill with a thin drill no thicker than 1 mm.

Let's start assembling. We put a piece of any glass wool inside the body of the spirit lamp so that it fills the entire space not tightly, but evenly. We turn the upper part of the can with a bulge inside the spirit lamp and insert it into place. She won't go all at once. We put the alcohol stove on a flat durable surface. We put on it even wooden block and gently knock on it with a hammer until we hammer the lid into place. Don't overdo it! Aluminum is very soft and the whole structure can be easily crushed.

The alcohol is almost ready. In order for any dishes to stand on it steadily, it is necessary to make sure that it does not rest on the entire circumference of the spirit stove, but only on three points. We evenly mark these points on the body and with a file we grind the metal between them a little, at the same time and equaling the edges.

Spirit lamp tests

That's all. You can pour alcohol and test.

A spirit lamp similar to mine in size easily heats 300 gr. metal mug with water room conditions in about 7 minutes. In experiments at room temperature, a full spirit lamp burned for 15 minutes. This is enough to make tea for one person.

It would seem that what can be written about such a simple object of observation as a burning candle? However, observation is not only the ability to see, but also the ability to pay attention to details, as well as concentration, the ability to analyze, sometimes even a manifestation of ordinary perseverance. The great English physicist and chemist M. Faraday wrote: "Consideration of the physical phenomena that occur during the burning of a candle is the broadest way that can be approached to the study of natural science."

The purpose of this practical work- learn to observe and describe the results of observation. You have to write a short miniature essay about a burning candle (Fig. 31).

Rice. 31.
burning candle

To help you with this, we offer several questions that need to be answered in detail.

I. Describe the appearance of the candle, the substance from which it is made (color, smell, hardness), wick.

II. Light a candle. Describe the appearance and structure of the flame and answer the following questions:

1. What happens to the material of a candle when the wick burns?
2. What does the wick look like when it burns?
3. Does the candle heat up, is there a sound when burning, is heat released?
4. What happens to the flame if there is air movement?
5. How fast does a candle burn out?
6. Does the length of the wick change during combustion?
7. What is the liquid at the base of the wick? What happens to it when it is absorbed by the material of the wick, and what happens to it when its drops flow down the candle?

Many chemical processes take place when heated, but the flame of a candle is not used for this purpose. Therefore, in the second part of this practical work, we will get acquainted with the device and the work of the already familiar to you heater- spirit lamps (Fig. 32).

32.
Spirit lamp device

The spirit lamp consists of a glass tank 1, which is filled with alcohol no more than 2/3 of the volume. A wick 3 made of cotton threads is immersed in alcohol. It is held in the neck of the tank with a special tube with disk 2. The spirit lamp is lit only with matches. For this purpose, you can not use another burning spirit lamp, as the alcohol may spill and flare. The wick must be cut evenly with scissors, otherwise it starts to burn. You can not blow on the flame to put out the spirit lamp, it should be closed with a cap 4. It also protects against the rapid evaporation of alcohol.

If you happen to be outside the city where there is no access to the gas main, then you probably encountered the need to use a device of the type Quite often people use stoves or stoves that work from cylinders with an alternative solution may be a home-made device that operates on liquid fuel. If you are the owner suburban area, and periodically try to solve the problem of space heating and cooking, then, quite possibly, an alcohol burner will suit you. It can become an indispensable attribute even if you prefer to go overnight camping trips in your free time.

The main advantages of devices

The mentioned burner can easily be made by you yourself. It will be possible to take it with you to the garage, to the country house or on a hike, as well as to those places where there is no electricity, mains gas or wood stoves. With the help of such a device, you can quickly heat water, cook food or heat a room. Such an invention is suitable for those places where it is impossible to make a fire, since the device generates a flame that is almost invisible, but it will be enough for cooking. The alcohol burner has a lot of advantages, among them one can single out good performance under difficult weather conditions. And this is true even if the outside temperature drops to -40 degrees. If you make such a device yourself, you can feel how easy it is to use, compact, economical and affordable in terms of purchasing fuel. The last factor is one of the most important benefits such burners, since alcohol can be purchased everywhere. Among other things, the cost of such fuel is low, especially when compared with kerosene or gas.

Burner technology

An alcohol burner can be made in one of several ways. If you are new to this business, then you should choose the simplest technique that does not involve the use of Technology involves the use of empty tin cans in the amount of two pieces, they must first be cleaned and rinsed running water. After this, the products should dry well. In the central part of one of the jars, 4 punctures should be made using nails. The same holes should be made around the perimeter of the rim of the can. This element will become a blank for a future burner, from which a flame will burst out when used.

This part must be cut off from the can so that the length of the side is three centimeters. To do this, you can use household scissors, since the tin is thin enough, it is easy to cut it with any sharp object. When an alcohol burner is made, at the next stage in the second jar it is necessary to cut off the bottom, this must be done as carefully as possible so that there are no notches. Otherwise, you will need to use a file or sandpaper.

Work methodology

A piece of cotton wool is placed on the bottom of the burner, which must first be moistened in alcohol. Next, the structure is covered top so that it acts as a sealed lid. If you do not ensure close contact of the parts, then strips of tin can be installed in the slots, which are left over from the cutting of products. When an alcohol burner is made by hand, it must be used according to a certain principle. Alcohol should be poured into upper part structures with holes. This must be done in such a way that the composition gets on the rim. The latter should also have holes. Next, the alcohol is set on fire, the tin is heated, and the heat is transferred to the cotton wool, which is dipped in alcohol. As a result, vapors begin to be released that will support the flame.

Final works

At the last stage, it is necessary to make supports on which there will be a pot for cooking. To do this, use two metal rods that are driven in the shape of the letter P into the ground parallel to each other. In the process of cooking food, it is necessary to prevent the device from tipping over. If you decide to make a product such as an alcohol burner with your own hands, then you should remember that such a device is disposable, since cans won't work for next time.

Alternative manufacturing option

Useful homemade products can be somewhat more complex than the above option. However, such a design will be distinguished by higher reliability, durability and strength. We will talk about it further.

Preparatory work

In order to make a device with your own hands, you should prepare a compressor, it is best to use a car camera, which you can borrow from freight transport. Ee will need to be pumped up from time to time. An alternative solution is a compressor from an old refrigerator. A receiver should be prepared, a plastic canister with a volume of 10 liters or less is perfect for this. The cork should be solid, preferably translucent. Such useful homemade are made of several elements, among them a fuel tank should be distinguished, for this you need to use a two-liter steel container, into the lid of which two tubes are soldered. One of them should be long, the other short. The first falls to the bottom of the tank.

Work technology

Alcohol can be purchased at the store, but the design is so simple that you can make them yourself. The fuel tank should be filled with alcohol, but not more than 1/2 of the volume. Installed at the compressor inlet the simplest filter. It can be done independently, using a funnel on which a segment is stretched. The principle of operation of the device is ensured by pumping air with a compressor, as well as its further entry into the receiver under some pressure. It smooths out pressure fluctuations. Then the air is sent to a container with fuel, where it mixes with alcohol vapor. The resulting mixture enters the burner. You can adjust the intensity of combustion using a special screw that is on the burner.

The third production method

If you are wondering how to make alcohol burner, then it will be necessary to prepare a flat metal jar, which can be a container for canned food or cosmetic cream. You will need a pumice stone, as well as alcohol. The mechanism of such a device is extremely simple and does not require an application. special efforts during manufacture. To create a device, it is necessary to put pumice stone in the container as tightly as possible, and then pour everything on top with some amount of fuel. It is necessary to perform these manipulations as carefully as possible so that the liquid is absorbed and not splashed out. Due to the presence of pumice, the flame will burn for 15 minutes, since it will act as a fuel distributor due to its porous structure. Such an alcohol burner from cans will allow you to cook food, as well as heat enough small room by type of garage or change house. To heat food, it is necessary to build a stand for dishes, which is made of stones, wire or other material. The main thing in this case is to take into account the requirement, which is the need for stability of the dishes.

The main types of alcohol burners

Alcoholic homemade burner may be open or closed type. Each of these structures has its own advantages and disadvantages. If a we are talking about device open type, then you may encounter not so high efficiency, combustion will proceed for larger area. This will contribute to the abundant evaporation of fuel. Among other things, closed-type burners do not provide the ability to control the amount of remaining fuel. Such burners require external ignition, which increases the fire hazard. However, each of the listed burners can be made independently. It is important to remember that the work of the burners is based on the combustion of vapors fuel mixture. Therefore, it is strictly forbidden to use substances that contain acetone, as well as gasoline, as fuel.

experimental part

The capacity of the tank can be equal to 70 milliliters, the nozzles must be made in the amount of 16 pieces, the distance between them should be one centimeter. Approximate burning time can be 25 minutes per charge. As practice shows, the duration and intensity of burning of such devices depends on the type of fuel. Best of all, combustion occurs from the vapor of medical alcohol. If we are talking about situations where salicylic acid is used, then it does not burn so intensely. If the burner is filled with food alcohol, then it will show the shortest burning time.

The temperature of the alcohol burner is high enough to heat the tent and cook food. In the process of using alcohol devices, solutions that contain about 50-70% ethanol should be used. This allows you to extend the period of work, although it reduces the intensity of the flame. The design has the ability to boil 0.5 liters of water in 7 minutes, which is enough to make tea or steam noodles. fast food. During operation, do not turn the device over, as this may be a fire hazard. As practice shows, if you throw cotton wool on top, and then set it on fire, alcohol can begin to evaporate strongly from overheating, because of which the burner will simply shatter in half. The design of the burner is very simple, but before making it, many people think why use liquid alcohol when there is dry alcohol. The answer to this question will be a higher heat transfer, which indicates the possibility of faster water heating.

Finally

Using a few, you can independently make an alcohol burner that will be able to help you out of town and on a camping trip on vacation. It is noteworthy that you can perform such a device without additional tools. That is why it so attracts home craftsmen who often prefer to relax outside the city. There is no need to bring such a device with you; it will be enough to use tin cans that can be prepared in nature. And after the first use, the device can be disposed of.